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Dress, and 3-sep2 6 

[Co^ .,^ 1967 I 

How to Improve It 



BY 

Frances Stuart Parker. 



Illustrated. 



PRICE, $1.00. 



DRESS, 



HOW TO IMPROVE IT. 



BY 

Feances Stuart Parker. 



" Clothes, which began in foolishest love 
of Ornament, wliat have they not be- 
come ! Increased Security and pleasurable 
Heat soon followed: but what of these? 
Shame, Divine fShame (ScJiacDn, Modesty), 
as yet a stranger to the Anthroixiphagxius 
bosom, arose there mysteriously uiider 
Clothes : a mystic, grove-encircled shrine 
for the Holy in man. Clothes gave us in- 
dividuality, distinctions, social polity ; 
Clothes have made Men of us ; they are 
threatening to make Clothes-screens of 
us."— Carlyle. 



CHICAGO: 
Chicago Legiil News Company. 

1897. 






TO Till-; 

TKAniKK's oi' ami;kmc.\, 

wii i;i'iii-;i; i.\ I'lii-: im i.ni', riiK 

lldMK, OK lllK 
SCHOOL. 



('iipyrii.'lit. Is'.iT. liy iMi.wrKs Sti-.\i:t I' aiiki-.i:. 



m 



DRESS, AND HOW TO IMPROVE IT. 



CHAPTER I. 

CONVICTION AND CONVERSION. 

This ])ainphlet is written as an answer to the numberless 
questions anil letters received from women all over the land, 
the burden of whose crv is, '• What shall we do to be sav^ed " 
from the bondao:e of clothes? And it is an endeavor on the 
part of the writer to tell as plainly as possible what she has 
discovered during fifteen years of actual experimentation in 
adapting the conventional dress to changing convictions. This 
process has been necessarily a difficult one; it was not an easy 
matter to make a decided change from the accustomed to the un- 
accustomed in dress; the time had not yet come when a woman 
could make, not an evolution, but a revolution, and discard- 
ing her old dress, step forth clothed in the new, as easily as 
the butterfly does from the chrysalis. 

Sixteen years ago, I had the good fortune to be a pupil of Pro- 
fessor Lewis B. Monroe, Dean of the Boston University School 
of Oratory. He was a man who thoi'oughly believed in physical 
culture and constantly strove to impress upon his pupils the ne- 
cessity of a free and unrestrained use of every muscle in the 
body. He crossed the ocean seven times to study the methods 
of Delsarte and incidental to that study made liimself thor- 
oughly acquainted with all forms of ]>hysical culture. 

Thoroughly familiar with the methods of the best French 
gymnasiums, a man himself of fine physique, he made everv 
one with whom he came in contact, a firm believer that — '' Not 
soul hel]is body more, than body soul.'" 

The ])upils in his school were instructed in gymnastics, prac- 
tising both with and without apparatus, and were given lec- 

(-) 



tares in anatomy, physiology and hyoieno. It was after 
listening to one of tliese, given by Dr. Helen O'Leary, illus- 
trated by a manikin, that I went home and took olT my corset, 
which seemed to my partially enlightencMl mind the root of 
all bodily evil. Then and there my troubles began. 




1, under-vest. 2, under-drawers. 3, garter. 4, muslin drawers. 5, 
chemise. 6, corset. 7, corset cover. 8, hose. 9, bustle. 10, muslin un- 
derskirt. 11, muslin petticoat. 12, di-ess waist. 13, overskirt. 14, skirt 
of di'ess.* 



It did not occur to me that my skirt band still remained, 
and that my dress was quite as tight as before, or that the 
weio-ht of the skirts still remaining, pressed heavily upon the 
abdominal muscles. I calmly removed ni}^ corsets and de- 
prived my weakened muscles of their customary support. 



* This diagram was first published in the New York San of .Viigust 9, 1S91, to illustrate 
an article upun the subject of Dress, given by me at Chautauqua during that summer. 

(4) 



Either the lecturer did not see the necessity for a radical 
change of dress throughout, or my mind was incapable of so 
advanced a thought; at all events, I brought from the lecture 
simply a determination to discard my corsets and give my in- 
ternal organs a chance to perform their functions. 

In all my experience, I have never met a woman whose cor- 
set was tight. I think I must have been the one exception to 
w^omankind, for mine certainly was tight at all times, and I 
gave its strings an extra pull before donning my better gowns, 
and this had gone on without question from early girlhood to 
the age of twenty-nine. 

That winter, I was wearing the costume universally worn 
at that time. It consisted, first, of woolen under-drawers and 
vest, white muslin drawers, fastened around the waist by a 
band; and, in regular order, chemise, corset, corset-cover, un- 
derskirt, bustle, dress-skirt, over-skirt and basque. Seven 
bands around the waist, besides the stiff, shield-like corset, 
which prevented the complete severance of the diaphragm, 
and lifted the weight somewhat from the abdomen. 




If any sensible woman will turn her attention from the 
trim, well-rouuded waist she now admires, long enough to 
consider the true inwardness of that waist, it will surely, as it 
did me, " give her pause." 

Au aroused consciousness kept my interior conditions vividly 

(5) 



before me — iiiv ll();itiii;i^-i'ibs pressiiii*- iiiLo my liver, my stom- 
ach crowded out of the roomy home its Creator had ^ivcu it, 
and endeavoring- to make aphice for itself in the room rigiitly 
belongino- to the lungs and heart, and they in turn interfered 
with, and protesting as best they could by shortened breath 
and i-apid action. Tiiis n\oi\ of heart, lungs, stomach and 
liver, all dei-anged at once, made me strong in my determina- 
tion to restore to these much abused organs their natur-al 
I'iuhls. 




But with the removal of tlie corset muscular anarchy en- 
sued. I felt as if my l)ack would break in two. In addition 
to tiiis, I became ])aiiifully aware of the weight of my skirts 
over the abdomen, while every one of these seven bands cut 
its way into my weak and nn])rotected back. 

New conditions demand new adjustments. The problem 
of how to relieve the waist muscles called ni}- attention to 
shoulder straps, and these for a time seemed to answer every 
purpose. It was not h)ng. however. l)efore the draii'ii'inf of 
the weighty skirts cause<l the shoulder muscles to ache, and 
I noticed a tendency to collapse and conti'action of the chest. 
This wonld never do, so I began to study the problem of light- 
eninir skirts. I sewed them to waists, buttoned them on waists, 
pinned them on waists, combined two and sewed them on one 
waist, in short, tried every method that "vvas ever invented, 
save tlie only sensible one, of discarding tliem. This ])eiio(l 
of experimentation lasted several vears, durino- which I j)aid 

(6) 



constant attention to physical cnlture. 1 did not return to 
corsets and succeeded in Ijeing fairly conifortalde. so far as 
skirts were concerned, l)ut no more. 

In addition to tiie problem of comfort, a certain lack of 
symmetry made itself felt, and the question of the combination 
of comfort and beauty dimly ])resented itself. 

At about this stage of my development Mrs. Anna Jenness 
Miller l)ei;an writing on this subject; feeling as 1 did, I eagerly 
received the ideas of Mrs. Miller which now opened up to me 
the artistic possibilities ot" woman's dress, with a pleasing pros- 
pect of help from without. 

In these days of enlightment and freedom, when tlie im- 
proved dress is worn by so many, it is hard to realize the dif- 
liculties of a first departure from conventional forms, but to 
those of us who had been struggling, isolated and despairing, 
J\Irs. Miller, with her splendid courage and enthusiasm, was an 
avatar of better days indeed. My first knowledge of JVIrs. 
Miller's improved gowns came to me through the Woman's 
Journal, and visiting Uoston soon after, I went uj) to the office 
on Park street to see and admire the photogra])hs which were 
there exliii)ited. I was profoundly impressed l)y their utility 
and beauty, and returned to Chicago, my zeal for dress im- 
provement renewed, and eager to embody at once in a gown, 
the beautiful ideas that had taken ])ossession of me. 

Little I dreamed of the trials that awaited me, beside which 
all my ]iast tribulations were as nothing. 

I shall never forget that first gown. I had for a dress- 
maker a woman of most decided opinions, who visited Paris 
ev^ery year, and to her I confided what I waiited in the way 
of a dress, innocently imagining that she would be eager to 
hel]) me on my u})ward way. I had decided on a very modest 
dress for my Jirst attempt. It was to be of dark olive green 
l)roadcloth, the skirt just clearing the ground, and hung from 
a sleeveless underwaist. For the outside waist, I ])lanned a 
fitted short coat, opening over a vest of cream broadcloth, 
with high collar and rather loose sleeves. Xow, could any- 
thing in the way of a dress seem more simple or easily nuide 
than that i 

Imagine my astonishment when my dressmaker at first 
utterly I'efused to materialize this child of my fancy. It was 
only after much persuasion she revoked her decision far 
enougli to make the skirt; but she persistently declined to 



have anything to do with tlie coat and Test. Womankind hav- 
ing failed me, I turned to a man, a tailor, of course, and oh, 
such a coat as he sent mo ! 

1 took the ungainly, ill-fitting garment to the dressmaker 
and she ruined the cloth in trying to remed}^ the fit. Of course, 
when I went to get more cloth, it had all been sold; but I 
bought some lighter material and had it dyed. Then coat 
number three was made, and it was failure number three, as 
well. 

J]y this time, my dressmaker's patience and my pocketbook 
were exhausted. I could not afford to replace the gown with 
another, and so for one winter I sutfei'cd martyrdom wearing- 
out that dress. It was wholly unbecoming both in color and 
form, the beauty of the shade and conil)ination at the time of 
purchase making me forget that my eyes were blue, the cloth 
olive; but 1 was sustained by the thought that I was suffering 
in a <>ood cause. 




Alas, years afterward, a friend kindly told me INFrs. A. bad 
confided to her that she " thought Mrs. Parker had injured 
the cause of dress reform more by the back of that coat than 
anv and evervthing else combined ! ! !" Mrs. A. did not men- 

(8) 



tion the matter to me, of course, her position being typical of 
the attitude of many who believe thoroughly in the principles 
and necessity for reform or imj)rovement, but who do not be- 
lieve that it is better to '' strive through acts uncouth toward 
making, than repose on aught found made." 



(0) 



CHAPTER 11. 

A \V():\IAXS ( r.UB for physical culture and C0RRE( 'T DRE8S. 

Up to the time of my I3(«t()n visit I had been working 
alone, with an eye solely to my own ])ersonal comfort and 
liealth. Now I was aronsed to the possibilities that lay be- 
fore womankind in the, as yet unexplored, fields of beauty, 
health and comfort in dress, and o^ladly joined with several 
ladies in the orcj;anization of the Chicao-o Society for the Pro- 
motion of Physical Culture and Correct Dress, a club whose 
name explains its object. JSTow, as never before, I learned 
the value of organization and the inspiration whicli comes 
where many are working toward one desired end. 

The clul) was composed of women wiio, like myself, had 
been experimenting for yeai's in the firm belief that there 
could be souK^tliing better in woman's dress. jVIany had em- 
i)odied their ideas in artistic home dresses or improved under- 
wear. They recognized the fact that one woman alone could 
never bring ai)ont the wished-for information. The\' hoped 
the earnest effort and untiri'ig pur[)ose of the maiiv com- 
bined might accomi)lish it. 

The watchword of the Boston reform movement, twenty 
years eai4i(M\ had been *■• Health and Comfort." The Chicago 
club added to these words, "• Aesthetic P)eauty," the Sesame, 
which was destined to unlock the door for the entrance of 
improved dress, for its founders fully realized that a dress with- 
out beauty would be forever shut out from tlie wai-drobes of 
the majority of women. 

Tliese seekers after light went even fai-ther than the gown 
itself. They declared, with Mrs. Miller, that the dress must 
not oidy be beautiful and adapted to its wearer, but that tiie 
body must be developed and improved as well, so that the 
woman should be beautiful within as well as witiiout. To 
accomplish this, classes in gymnastics were formed for prac- 

' (10) 




Dancing Faun.'^' 

ticino; both witli niiil without a])paratu.s. Loctures on the ne- 
cessity of physical culture were instituted; woman's dress from 
the earliest times was thoroughly investigated and discussed, 
and the advantages or defects of different eras and costumes 
were noted. 



* Masculine Waist.— Dress refoi-mers have Ijeeii unjustly accused of trying to imitate a man's 
dress. By comparing the waist of tlie Dancing Faun with tliat of the Venus Oenetrix, it will he 
seen that the fashionable dress of to-day is in reality an imitation of the masculine. A man's waist 
is triangular, sloping from the shoulders to a point above the liips. AVoman's waist, on the contrary, 
is ovoid Cegg shape). The reason tlie tailor-made girl is so stiff and unwomanly, so lacking in fenii- 
niuity, is due to the fact that she, and not the advocate of dress improvement, " apes the masculiuet" 



(11) 



Many dresses cMiilxxlyliio' tho idoas of the members of the 
club wore worn to tho iiKH^tings and t'rcelv criticised. The ut- 
most <^enerosity was shown hy the hidics in givinf^; to others 
the benefit of their individual ideas. If a tneniber found any- 
thing in iho way of an improved uiuh^'garment, a i)etter 
method of cutting a sivirt, an improvement in a bodice, it was 
immediately given to the club for the use of the whole. 

Artists talked of the antique and ideal in art. Physicians 
sl.iowed how every departure from nature was attended by 
serious physical ills. In a word, the ])hysical, aesthetical and 
ethical sides of the ipiestion were ably presented and fully 
discussed. 

Every woman tried to convert her own dressmaker, and 
dressmakers were cordially welcomed to all discussions, and 
freely given the benefit of all investigations and discoveries. 

Above all it was insisted that a fashion in dress is as un- 
philosophical and irrational as a fashion in architecture. The 
artist and architect strive from their study of ])rincij)les to 
ada|)t their creations to time, place and pur])Ose. This is true 
of all art and should be doubly so of dress. 

If the climate, the occasion, and above all, the individual, 
are taken into consideration, then the garment evolved is al- 
ways in fashion, because like any work of art, the principles 
which govern its construction are unvarying. 

Either ignorance or the ignoring of function on the part of 
artisan designers of costumes, has led to everj^ kind of absurdity, 
defeating the very ])urpose for which woman is universally sup- 
posed to be striving, namely, enhancement of natural charms. 

When slender, long-waisted figures are demanded by fash- 
ion, what is more absurd than a plum]), i-oliin ty]>e of woman 
trying to meet this demand? Think how miserable she is, 
too, as she laces, distorts, defaces and effaces her own natu- 
rally charming individuality, surrendering all her grace in a 
vain (Mideavor to model herself after the ideal of an io-norant, 
unthinking Erencli dressmaker. 

To quote the Club Calendar of the Society for Physical 
Culture and Im[)rove(l Dress f<jr ISO I and 1892: 

" Tlu' study ami use of improved I'oruis of dress by the members of this 
soL-iety is entirely indeiHMideiit of any fashion. Art. orifjjinality, the princi- 
ples of taste, usefuliu'ss, healtii and suitability to the eharacteristics and con- 
dition of each individual are consulted. Conventionality and the fashion 
books arc utterly ignored. It is exi>ected that each person will consider 

(12) 



her own indi%'iduality in adopting improved clotliing, so that she will not 
necessarily be dressed like her neighbor, as her personality is not rei)eated! " 

********** 

" While we expect to make many mistakes in our efforts to realize cos- 
tumes that shall be healthful, comfortable and artistic, we also expect 
patiently to study the best embodiments of the human form divine to be 
found in sculpture and painting, to emulate their proiwrtions in time 
to find, each one for herself, such forms of clothing as shall be suit- 
able to her purse, condition, duties, foi-m and complexion. Such dress ulti- 
mately as shall conceal infelicitous characteristics, and set off with greater 
effect such charming features as each may possess." 



(13) 



CHAPTER III. 

ADVANTAGES OF REFORM UNDERGARMENTS. 

The advantao'es of these garments will suggest themselves 
to every thoughtful woman, not tlie least among wliich is, that 
everv one of them, except the slcirt, can be bought ready- 
made at the counters of a drygoods store. 

This is an immense saving of time and strength, something 
found out and taken advantage of by the members of the 
" strono:er sex " long ago. 

There is the saving of hil)()r in washing and ironing. One 
scarcely realizes how great this is until the contents of the 
laundry basket of the dress improver ai'e compai-ed with those 
of her more conservative unimproved sistei'. 

The constant sewing, spring and fall, and renewing of gar- 
ments, is saved, leaving many an overt )urdened woman free to 
devote herself to other duties. The garments are stronger 
and do not tear as easily as cotton ones, for, aside from a little 
lace around the neck' and shn^vesof the skirt, there is no trim- 
ming' to be mended or I'enewed. 

AVomeu always make complaint about the lii'st cost of these 
garments, but if the ])i'ice of the ordinary undergarments, in- 
cluding the wear and tear of trimming, is cai'efully compared 
with the improved suit, each suit of the latter will be found 
to Ije from live to ten dollars cheaper. 

Then there is the saving of doctor's bills and medicines, gain 
in energy, serenity of temiier, and the consciousness of obedi- 
ence to natural law. ranking far above any mere money value. 

The advantage in traveling of the improved underclothing- 
can scarcely be estimated. It is easy enongh to wash out a 
flannel undervest and pair of tights in one's own room, if 
necessary, and the garments recpiire very little room or care in 
packing. 

Tijen the suit is adjustable to all climates. When 1 was ii] 

(14; 



Texas, several summers ago, I required only the tights and un- 
dervest, adding as I wore thin dresses, the India silk petticoat 
described. Coming to a cooler climate I slipped a Ypsilanti 
wool suit under my silken tights and vest, and was comfort- 
able in the chilly air. 

Among tlie particular advantages of the combination gar- 
ments and .tights, .are, the two togetli.er form a i)erfect sub- 
stitute for hose, flannel vest and drawers, cotton drawers, 
garters and underskirt. They ai*e jesthetical'.y beautiful, fol- 
lowing the outHiies of the form so closely that they m ike a 
])erfect foundation on which to drape the outer covering. 
The tiglits give necessary waruith, but do not impede the 
circulation or free action of the leg, and there is no weight 
hung from the waist. 

I>i)th cotton and woolen skirts cHng to the limbs, causing a 
slight effort in walking. Tliis is especially true on a windy 
day. The amount of resistance with each step, though slight, 
is cumulative in its action, causiuo' n waste of eueru-v and much 
unnecessary fatigue. 

A mechanic works years to invent a machine which shall 
run easily, accomplishing the maximum amount of labor with 
the minimum expenditure of ])ower. In the use of the far 
more delicate human mechanism, ought not the same care to 
be exercised ? 

All the energy expended along lower lines of resistance is 
necessarily taken from higher lines, and in so far limits the 
usefulness of the individual. 

There is such a demand u|)on all classes of society for the 
best work of which they are capable, that he who would win 
the race must rid himself of all superfluous hindrances. 

From a physical standpoint these garments are certainly 
conducive to health, for the circulation is unimpeded and the 
delicate ])ortions of the body are not exposed to sudden changes 
of temi^erature. 

They are modest in the extreme, saving all undue exposure, 
and because they are light in weight and sensible in construc- 
tion, they admit the utmost freedom of action; neither are 
they so suggestive as frills, ruffles, and embroideries. A 
woman wearing them can walk the streets, no matter how 
hard the wind blows, go up and down stairs, climb mountains, 
or break her neck with perfect impunity from undue exposure. 

Jt is universally conceded that women are the w'eaker sex, 



that their bodies are more tenderly organized, and need greater 
care and protection than a man's; but contrast the covering 
of a woman's with a man's lower limbs, and see how foolishly 
and needlessly her body is exposed to every change of temper- 
ature, and note in every way how illy protected it is. 

That woman has so long survived her clothes furnishes a 
most strikini>- illustration of the doctrine of the survival of 
the fittest. 



(ifi) 



CHAPTER lY. 

DEVELOPMENT OF BODY. 

Great care should be taken when one has decided to make a 
chang-e in dress, that too much is not exacted of enervated mus- 
cles, weakened through lono' lack of use. Put on the combi- 
nation garment and the tights at once, but begin to remove 
the corsets by degrees. Take the steels from the front and 
button them; lace them at the back with elastic cord. Have 
an improved dress made thnt will allow you a quarter or a 
half inch extra breathing s])ace, with the seams sufficiently 
deep to admit of further letting out, if necessary. If skirts 
are still worn, make button holes in the band and button them 
to the corsets or corset cover, allowing a (piarter of an inch 
slack in the band, between each button hole. Gradually take 
out all the bones in the corset and at once cut it otf at the top 
and bottom, removing by degrees all superfluous linings. 
While this is going on take breathing exercises three times 
a day (according to directions found in the chapter under 
the head of breathing exercises). Get a set of chest weights 
(No. 10 Narragansett Manufacturing Co.) and practice night 
and morning all the different chest weight exercises to be 
found in the little book that will be furnished with the weights. 
Get Guthman's Aesthetic Gymnastics, Checkley, KaMer on 
Breathing, Lutzen on Res])iration, or any other standai'd book 
on exercises. Begin to find out what muscles there are in the 
body, and to use them. Three-quarters of an hour a day, for 
regular exercise, will strengthen and develop unused muscles 
in a most marvelous manner; and head-ache, nervousness, and 
tlyspepsia '■ Will fold up theirtents like the xVrabs, and silently 
steal aw^ay." 

U there is a good gymnasium near, a gymnasium where 
some attention is paid to measurements and a relial^le physi- 
cian in charge to prescribe the course to be pursued, enter it. 

(17) 



tf not, tlie books indicated will permit a person witli a reason- 
able amount of common sense to accomplish the desired result. 
Never unduly fatigue a muscle. Stop exercising before you are 
really weary. Remember that it is short periods of practice, 
with frequent intervals of rest, that do the work. Do not ex- 
pect to get strong in a day, and do not be alarmed if unused 
muscles ache a little. Kichard Proctor said it took his muscles 
two months to i-ecover their normal condition, after foolishly 
wearing a corset for three months, lie was growing stout, 
and thought it woidd bean excellent ])lan to adopt the fem- 
inine method of disj)osing of superfluous flesh, l)ut aftei' a shoi't 
trial discovered that there coukl be greater ills in life than 
that of extra avoirdu})ois, and so left otf his corsc^ts. but was 
two months, as above stated, in lea\'ing off the ])ains they 
brouo'ht him. If it took him two months to recover from a 
three months wearing of corsets, a woman who has worn cor- 
sets five, ten, fifteen, twenty years can'tex})ect to recover from 
the results of violated law in a week or a month; but if she 
has perseverance and exercises a little common sense and 
patience she will find nature very ready to help and (piick to 
accommodate herself to new and better conditions. 

Some attention, indeed a great deal of attention, must be 
given to physical exercise by any one meditating a change of 
dress. Much of the successful wearing of an imi)roved gown 
lies in the symmetrical bod\' that the dress covers. Shouhiers 
can be broadened, lioUow chests HUed out, shrunken arms 
and legs developed, backs straightfMied, until the misused body 
approximates to its human form divine. 

llunning, jumi)iiig, dancing, I'ising upon toes, poising for- 
ward aiul back from heel to toe, pulling of chest \vei>a,hts, 
swinging of dumb bells, breathing <'xercises; i-owing, skating, 
))laying tennis, riding bicycle and all exercises that bi-ing into 
])lay unuseU muscles, im})rove the circulation aiul ])urify the 
blood, will, virtually, remake the body, and that without un- 
due expenditure either of time or money. 

Be sure that all muscular restrictions are reniovc^l before 
you attem])t to exercise. Any amount of harm may be done 
where the clothing interferes with the fi-ee and ])roper func- 
tioning: of the bodv. It. must be remembered that the strain 
is sure to come, and does generally come, upon the weakest 
and most delicate organs of the body, and therefore exercise, 

(18) 



the most beneficial of all remedial means, must be gradually 
and carefully used. 

We have periodic crazes for skating, lawn-tennis, dancing, 
etc. These are never dangerous if taken in moderation, with 
proper clothing, and at the proper time. But, 2:enerally, there 
is no reason or common sense used, and the result is serious 
difficulties, which cause some short-sighted physicians to de- 
clare that women ought never to exercise, because their organ- 
ism is essentially different from that of man. When a muscle 
is weakened and enervated from long disuse, and a demand is 
made upon it that only a trained and developed muscle can 
fulfill, no wonder that pain and discomfort are the results. 
With either man or woman, time and careful training are 
necessary where skill and endurance in the use of the body are 
desirable, and the ex])erience of people who expect to be strong 
in a day by immediate and spasmodic exercise is ever the same, 
— ^a season of pain and discomfort, if not serious organic de- 
rangement, whose outcome is an increased inertia, enhanced 
l)y fear. 

The great trouble with woman's dress aesthetically, is, that 
it completely ignores the true form of the body, building out 
juid changing the figure without reference to its beauty of out- 
line, much less its functional use. It is as if an architect 
should draw plans for a house and utterly disregard the land, 
surroundings, or use to which the building is to be put, simply 
considering his own caprice, or perverted taste in the matter. 

In due time we receive notice that shoes are to be round- 
toed this season, and not square, as last; that street skirts are 
to be tight and trained; that waists are to be smaller and 
longer than ever; and one French magazine of fashion cap})ed 
the climax by announcing: '* The bust will be worn higher 
this year than last ! " 

It is not to be questioned that one of the great problems 
confronting women of the nineteenth century, is the adapta- 
tion of dress to the individual and to the needs of the individ- 
ual. That they have taken the first ste]) in such evolution, 
the bicycle and rainy-day dress bear witness. 

Encouraging signs of the times may be found in the stud}^ 
of art and the modification of the fashionable dress of to-day. 

Women are exercising — walking and riding the bicycle — 
with the avowed purpose of becoming stronger and better 

(19) 



developed. In short, it is the fashion to be well, and exercise 
is recognized as the one potent factor of health. 

More and more attention is paid to carriage and bearing of 
the body, and to be graceful is also one of the requisites of 
fashion. It is a hap])y day when custom and the law of being 
are in unison; the liarmonious develojmiont of mind and body 
then, and tlien oidy, becomes a possiltilit}'. 




Yenus (tENETRIX. 



Grace is the life, the spirit, the essence of motion. As we 
study color and proportion for the secret of beauty, we study 

(20) 



motion in its undulative or rhythmic waves and its changing 
adjustments of parts for the secret of grace. Beauty is inhe- 
rent and depends upon underlying form or structure; grace is 
acquired, and depends upon bahince, the adjustment of parts 
through opposition and sequence of movement. In the okl 
myth Juno borrows the girdle of Venus when she would 
charm Zeus. Her beauty needed grace to make her conquest 
complete. The Greeks fully recognized the fact that grace 
could be acquired, and lived up to their belief. 

In the ])lan of construction of the human body we have 
every requisite to grace, giving the adequate and full use of 
the body; to this, however, the great majority of ])eople do 
not attain. We learn by imitation and by necessity to call 
into use the various co-ordinations of the muscles. If, in a 
child's environment, there were that which would give him 
all-si'J.ed develo])ment there would be little need of physical 
culture. Even later in life if one were surrounded by models 
of grace and possessed a quick and keen perception, a proper 
use of the l)ody could be acquired. 

It is needless to say, however, that these requisites are 
lacking in the environment of to-day, and that education 
must supply tiiem. Awkwardness is looked upon as a neces- 
sity; people are born awkward, i?>'^6» they must remain awk- 
ward. Awkwardness means wasted energy and an unskillful 
use of the body. It means using ten pounds of steam when 
live pounds would accomplish the same result. We have 
just so much energy to expend, and if we waste along lower 
lines — locomotion — it of necessity takes from the higher — 
ratiocination, we will say. In that light the removal of re- 
strictions becomes of the highest importance. A cramped 
chest means an imperfect use of the breathing machin(!ry and 
vitiated blood; a shuffling walk, lack of intelligent direction; 
constrained movements, too much consciousness of self. The 
mind should be occupied with something higher than its own 
bodily movements, and a dress that will admit of the free use 
of all the various muscles of the body is indispensable. 

The animus of all improvement is a recognition of the in- 
alienable hiws of God and a reverent desire to live in accord- 
ance with his laws. The ground must be taken that anything 
that interferes with the highest usefulness of the being must 
be wrono-, and hence the endeavor to make the dress the 
servant, not the master. The Venus de Milo has stood the 

(81) 




Venus de Milo. 

test of ages as a model of grace and beauty, but the ordinary 
woman's taste has become so vitiated by bad example and 
])ractice that within a month two women have told me with 
virtuous horror that they thought the Venus de Milo Avas 
vulgar, one lady even stating that her husband wouldn't like 
it if she looked like that., pointing to a fine photogra])h of 
Juno. 

To again quote from the calendar of the Society for the 
promotion of Physical Culture and Correct Dress : 



(22) 



"Tilt? Study Conimittee earnestly reeoin mends that each member supply 
herself with a photograph of the Venus de Milo. 

In the words of tlie artist Hunt—' hang it in your room, trace it, copy 
it, draw it from memory over and over again, until you own it as you own 
" Mary had a little lamb." ' Our eyes must be taught to see beauty. 

After the Venus di Milo. there are the Venus di Medicis, Venus Genetrix, 
Thorwaldsen's Eve, Titian's nude figure in the picture of Sacred and Pro- 
fane Love, Richter's Queen Louise of P^russia coming down the stair, and a 
standing figure called The Fat:'s. l)y Tlmiinan, just now in the shop win- 
dows. 

Visit many times the statuary in the galleries of the Art Institute. 
Study these jihotographs and this sculpture till you know them, till you 
/ceZ their beauty, till you grow utterly out of patience with female forms 
that do not have similar outlines. 

To appreciate a beautiful form is the very first lesson we have to learn 
concerning perfect ph^'sical development." 



(2H) 



CHAPTER V. 

CONSTRICTIONS. 

An iiii])rove(l dress absolutely demands the removal of all 
constrictions. The collar must be made loose enough to ad- 
mit of perfect freedom of movement. If the collar binds the 
neck, or in any way interferes with its movement, the result 
will be a lessening of the size of the neck, which is decidedly 
detrimental to any woman, thick or thin. 

In studying the Greek statue, note the fact that the neck is 
always a support to the head and that in art, at least, the top- 
heavy woman of large head and scrawny neck never makes an 
appearance. 

All natural defects that can not be remedied by exercise may, 
in a degree, be made to disa])pear by the aid of dress; thus, if 
the neck is unduly long, the ccjllar can be made in such a way 
that it will take from the length and increase the circumfer- 
ence. Stout women with short necks should always dress the 
neck low. and never attempt, no matter what the st\de may 
be, to wear a high collar. But to return to the subject, the 
mischief of any and all forms of construction is that free action 
on the ])art of the muscle is preventeci, which causes it to be 
lessened in size, to weaken, to respond less readily to the im- 
pulse of the will, and, the balance lost, to pave the way for all 
sorts of nervous derangements. 

Every muscle of the body should not only have perfect free- 
dom of action, but should be called into action daily. Atrophy 
of muscle involves atrophy of nerve with corresponding atro- 
phy of brain cell. The law of function is the law of life, and 
two thirds of the body can not ivinain unused without detri- 
ment to the other third. To comph'te thecircuit, impression, 
thought, expression and that all-sided, means mental, moral 
and physical well-being. 

Have the sleeves of a dress made in such a way that the 

{2-i) 



arms can be raised freely over the head to the front and back, 
bent or straight. Never wear a glove a size too small; it pre- 
vents the freedom of use of the hand, and ]iroduces the wooden 
effect, so perfectly illustrated by our modern fashion plates. 

Avoid, as you would a plague, a band around the waist. 
Dresses should be made after or upon the principle of the 
princess form. The skirt should either be buttoned upon a 
waist or have a waist attached. All waists shoukl be laced 
with elastic, and so pliable that the waist muscles can act with 
perfect freedom, for beside the circulation, interference with 
the action of the diaphragm and abdominal muscles is the pro- 
lific cause of liver, stomach and womb troul)les.* A fino-er 
resting lightly upon a vein would hinder noticeably, its cir- 
culation. How much more must this be the case with the 
corset, or a tight skirt band. And still women wonder why 
the}^ have such cold feet in winter, headache and dyspepsia. 

An elastic about the limb destroys the shape of the limb, 
and again interferes with the circulation. The tiffhts with 
feet, or the boy's sock solve this problem. 

Last, but not least, the matter of shoes. The evil one must 
have stood at the poet's elbow, when he wrote, '' Her little 
feet, like mice, peeped in and out beneath her gown." This, 
together with the idea that a high instep is the sign of good 
blood and breeding, has done more to destroy the health and 
grace of women, than all other causes put together. 

It is parhaps a startling and wholly new proposition, but 
feet were made to stand upon and to walk with and not wholly 
to look at. Crowded toes, bunions, callouses, pipe-stem ankles, 
and feet distorted and deformed as a Chinese woman's feet; 
clumsy, shuffling, ambling walks, and a body thrown out of its 
natural poise, are tlie results of this endeavor to wear a boot 
wiiich ignores utterly and entirely the proper function of the 
foot. 

" Dress," says Mr. Eussell, " is the most difficult of all 
arts, because it combines beauty and expression. Absolute 
freedom must be given to expression. This demands control 
at the center and freedom at the extremities. ]S"eck, arm, 
hand and foot must be left free to move, that they may retain, 
or, if they have lost it, again acquire the pliability of nature. 
High collars, constant wearing of tight gloves, and tight, un- 

*See excellent article on " The Corset " by Dr. Robt. L. Dickenson of New York. 

(25) 



yielding' shoes, -avo ;iII eiKMiiiivx of <j,'t'ac(\ ])r()(lucing a stitt'ness 
that utterly suhvci-ts natural expression, 

" A coininon niistalvc is the; notion that heavy-soled shoes 
are advisable. Some English wonu^n wear soles so tliick that 
they can not bend Avitli any motion of tlie foot, and so pro- 
duce a stiff, flat-footed walk, as ])rejudicial to bodily develop- 
ment as to appearance. Shoes should be as pliable as gloves, 
allowing the foot to feel that spring which should be in the 
step. Ankles should not be bound, either, for the same 
reasons. Would we take i-old ^ Ves, if we were unused to low 
shoes, but we could quickly accustom ourselves to such a 
change, and would then liud benelit, even in cold weather. 
Besides the comfort, it would a<ld elasticity to the step, in- 
creasing the charm of the whok; personality. 

''For these reasons, the di'essing of the hands, neck and 
feet are the most important |)art of this subject of clothing. 

" You can give sco[>e to exj)ression. or you can become rigid 
by bad methods. It is not the Jieart. usually, that makes peo- 
ple grow stiff; on the contrary, time is apt to increase sym- 
pathy. Dress it is that robs us of natural movementj of grace, 
of expression." 



(2C) 



CHAPTETl VI. 

THE FEET. 

The feet were designed to sup|)ort the weiglit of the body, 
and to facilitate the act of locomotion in walking, running 
and leaping. 

So delicately and nicely articulated are the many bones, so 
complicated the muscular adjustments, that the utmost free- 
dom is necessary that the varied functions may be properl}' 
performed. 

Yet, not only have the real uses of the foot been over- 
looked, but the sha])e of the foot itself has been ignored, and 
the ideal of womankind is a conventional foot, Avooden and 
ine4astic, utterly incapable of fulfilling that for which it was 
designed. 

Just as the torso of the French dressmaker is radically dif- 
ferent from the form which tlie Creator of all things pro- 
nounced good, so is the shoemaker's foot different from the 
natural foot. Could the shoemaker and the dressmaker 
change the order of creation, and give us another body with 
internal organs re-arranged to suit the garments they design, 
we could go on our wasp-like way rejoicing. As it is, the con- 
ventional is utterly at war with the natural, with the inevi- 
table result that our clothing is neither comfortable, graceful 
nor beautiful. 

The shoemakers, like the dressmakers, present an unchang- 
ing model, saying : " To this shape woman must conform." 
And endeavoring to do this, she cramps the soft, yielding 
flesh, graceful in its God-given outline, to a thing of angles, 
raised bumps, hardened flesh and distorted muscles. 

In tracing this evil back to its cause, we find shoes were 
first used as a protection to the feet, either from the rough- 
ness of the way, or the inclemency of the weather. They 
were rough and clumsy in shape, but they had a great 

(37) 



udvantai^e ovei' tlu' modern shoo; tlioy Were subordinate to 
the beino- for whom thev were nunh', and left the feet free as 
])ossible in action. The antedeUivian man did not stay at 
home fi'oni a, Sunihiy afternoon stroll because his boots 
hurt him I The hiw holds good witli clothes as with creeds; 
when the spirit, wliich is freedom, is lost sight of, the form, 
which is boiuhige, "cabins, cribs, confines." 

By aluKJst imperceptible degrees the shoe came to be con- 
sidered as something entirely apart from the foot for which it 
Avas made, and then the mischief was done, or rather begun. 

To-day this state of affairs is universal among the so-called 
civilized naticms. The conventional, supposedly ornamental, 
but not useful shoe is so customarily adopted, that if a true 
foot form were to be shown a thousand women, nine hundred 
and ninety nine wouhl think it barbarous and mis-shapen. 
Usually when fashion demands victinn for her sacrifices, the 
weaker, more ornamental and conservative part of humanity 
is chosen, and thus we find women are the pn*incipal sufferers 
from the shoemaker's shoe. 

Not many ])eople can recall seeing a man in a pair of French 
heels, and very few wear boots two sizes too small for them. 

The poets have not written about him, '' Ills little feet like 
mice," etc., or informed us that " his high arched instep in- 
cased in its jeweled sli[)per ])roclaimed his royal descent." 

The effort to live up to these two quotations has cost a world 
of women health, strength, and even life itself. 

Experience, however, has })rovetl it is useless to a))})eal to 
womankind from this standpoint, for conventionality and ac- 
cepted usage will always outweigh health and strength. 

But if it can be proved without question that they sacrifice, as 
well, their beauty and grace, things which are of infinite value 
to ever}^ woman, then and not until then, will the boot be sub- 
ordinated to the foot, and not, as now, the foot made to con- 
form to the boot. 

The three radical defects of shoes as now made are, first, 
their size; almost-all shoes are nuxde too narrow and too short; 
they should certainly be an inch longer than the foot, and 
wide enough to allow full i)lay of the toes; secontl, their form 
is not right; no natural foot ha,s a square hump under the 
heel, a hump that (mtirely changes the natural graceful poise 
of the body, throwing forward the center of ecpiilibrium and 
iaducing an awkward, clumsy walk; third, the conventional 

(28) 



shoe is utterly uncomfortable, and by interfering with the cir- 
culation and proper use of the muscles, prevents a woman from 
taking the amount of exercise necessary to keep the organ- 
ism in good working order. 

A well shaped muscular foot, however large, is always elegant. 
What woman possessing a carriage that is royal and dignified, 
would not willingly disjiense with little wooden mice playing 
a clumsy bo-peep beneath her gown 'i 

A boot should be, at least, a quarter of an inch longer 
than the foot. It should be made with medium soles and 
spring heels, and of a leather that will not stretch; morocco, 
or calf, makes the best. A boot ])ro])erly made to lit the foot 
will wear twice as long as a custom-made boot where the best 
of nuiterial is not always used. AVlicu ordering, stand upon a 
piece of papci'. ami have your boot-maker draw the outline of 
your foot; have careful measurements taken, and then have a 
shoe made without heels, large enough in the ankle to admit 
of a free use of the same, and Avith a vamp low enough to 
allow free movement of the toe joints. 

I have had my boots made by the same boot-maker for six 
years, and some such conversation as this goes on regularly, 
every time I go in to order a new pair of shoes : 

"Oh, Mrs. Parker, you are not going to have your shoes 
made just like those last shoes! You have such pretty feet, 
let me make you a pair of stylish boots this once I " 

" ]S"o, Mr. 11., I want these boots just as I have been in the 
habit of having them." 

" Dut don't you think you had better have a heel '( I will 
put on a low heel." '' No, I want my boots to walk in." 

" Well, let me make the aid^le just a little tighter, for vour 
ankles will grow large if you don't look out." 

Finally, after I have insisted upon having my own way. 'Slv. 
li. has accej>ted the situation, and the measurements are being 
made, he remarks. 

" You don't have any corns, Mrs. Parker?" " Xo." 

"Or bunions^" "^'o." 

" All my customers have bunions and corns. I do not see 
any foot come into the store like your foot." 

He does not seem to see any relation between this and mv 
demand for a boot that '»vill tit me; and in spite of six 3"ears' 
missionary work on my part, he is still Avedded to his idol — de- 
formity. 

(29) 



CHAPTEll VII. 
DRESS REFORM GARMENTS. 

Fii-st in iin])(>i'tance, as well as in ordci- of donning, is tlie 
(•onil)in;ition undergarment, which takes the place once held 
bv under-vest and under-drawers. 




Those manufactured by the Ypsilanti Com])any. at Yj)si- 
lanti, Mich., are ideal in manv respects. They retain the true 

^30) 



outlines of the human form, are of exquisite texture, and being 
Avoven in one piece of ehistic material, they adjust themselves 
perfectly to the figure. The white all-wool ones have one great 
objection from the standpoint of economy. Unless carefully 
washed, tlie garment will shrink. This objection does not 
ap|)lv to the natural wool or the ])lain bhick ones, which stand 
verv careless laundering without either I'adino- or shrinkino-. 




Jaros CoMiiixATioN Surr. 



The combination garments come in all sizes and weights; 
they are high-necked and low-necked, long-sleeved or short- 
sleeved, or no sleeves at all; knee lenoth or ankle length; and 

(31) 



are iiiado of silk, silk and wool, pure wool, lisle thread, silk 
and lisle — all dainty of make and perfect in finish. 

For those who suffer from rheumatism, or desire perfect 
protection with liuhtness of weight, the Jaros Bros. & Co..- of 
New Yoi'k, have an excellent combination garment. The 
Jaros garments will not shi'iidc in washing, and are thoroughly 
sanitary owing to the way in which they absorb moisture 
and allow a free cii'culation of air. These garments also follow 
the outlines of the tigui-e, are shapely and of exquisite texture. 

In winter, when still more warmth is desired, the Eques- 
trian tights, manufactured by the Y])silanti Company, can be 
drawn on, and will be found as warm as two additional skirts, 
simply because they closely lit the body. 




1, Ypsilaiiti sarnii'iit. 2, tights. 3. lisle thread imder-vest. 4. di'ess. 



It is to a member of the Chicago Club, Mrs. W. B. Keene, 
we are indebted for the tights, or, as Miss Helen Potter ])re- 
fers to call them, the sha|)es. l>eing a woman ])articnlarlv 
free from pi'('ju(lic(\ Mrs. Iveene saw in this much-al)used gar- 
ment, a modest and sensible addition to a woman's wardrobe, 
and after much writing and seeing of manufacturers and deal- 
ers, it is now possible to buy these garments in almost any of 
our large (;ity dry goods stores, at a reasonable cost. 

The most ex])ensive as well as the most durable tights are 
of English manufacture, a heavy weight silk with white tops, 

(32) 



They can also be had in black silk throuohout, liohter weight, 
and in all colors; they come, besides, in silk and wool, and in 
lisle thread. 

They are made with and without feet. When without feet 
a boy's sock is pulled on first and the tights drawn over. 

In winter, when silk tights are worn, the addition of lisle 
thread socks will render the feet sufficiently warm. It is a 
singular fact that the addition of a cotton garment beneath a 
wool or silk one, gives greater warmth than the addition of 
another of the same material, and vice versa. The tights are 
not woven as the ordinary silk hose, where, if one stitch gives 
way the whole chain is raveled, and the hose ruined. There is 
no raveling in tights, the hole simply wearing through as in 
closely woven cloth. This makes them much more durable 
than stockings. When the bottom of the foot, which is gen- 
erally the first to give way, is worn out, simply cut it off and 
insert a new sole, just as our mothers did in our childhood's 
stockings. If the art of doing this is a mystery, rip up a pair 
of old seamed hose, and the secret is easily learned. 





Petticoat with waist. Ypsilanti Equestrienne tights. 

When the new sole is past darning and the upper part be- 
gins to give way, cut the foot off at the ankle and sew on a 
pair of boy's socks, after cutting off the ribbed top of the socks, 
and your tights are almost as good as new. Tights are sup- 
ported every inch of the way and do not pull down as ordi- 
nary hose, and if they are a perfect tit in length, as they 
should be, there will be no wrinkling about the ankles. 

(33) 



The tit'lits can he procured in all standard colors, hut should 
any special shade he desired, it may he ohtained hy huyin<^ 
white tiii-Jits and havino- thetn dved. A silk or lisle-thread vest 
of the same cohu' as the tights is worn with tiicm. so that 
when the dross and jx^ttieoat aro I'cinoxcd, <»n(> will he clotlK^l 
all in hlaek, hine, white, or .^ray. ( )v('i- I lie liiilifs. with a thin 
dress, is woi'ii an India silk, cotton oi' linen petticoat, made 
with a waist. A ])rctty model has a low \'-shaped neck and is 
sleeveless, for it is a comhinatioii of coi-set -cover and waist; its 
slioi't waist ends just under the luist. 

A I'ound skirt, live hreadths of silk wide, with hem a (piai'ter 
of a yard deep, is eathered to it. If a ratliei- heavy (piality of 
India silk is used, it will Ix* found this skirt is the only one 
iiee(l(Ml with thin i^owns. 

Tliese skirts may he made of any material, hut the prefer- 
ence is given to stout wash silk', hecause it does not catch the 
dirt as cotton and hecause it is easier to walk in a silk skii-t 
than a cotton. 'I'his is especially true in winter, when one is 
wearing the ecpiestrian tights and attempting to \valk against 
a head wind. 

Some ohjection has been made to this material, especially in 
these days of hoiifftoif^ wide-spi'eading sldrts, hut this ohjec- 
tion is overcome \)\ facing the skirt with a very light hair- 
cloth, and having the uecessai-y stilfeiiing in the dress skirt 
itself. 

A more easily madc^ skirt, and one whicli \\\\\ give the 
wearer a woi'ld of comfort, is made l»y purchasing a silk or 
WM)rste<l under-shirt. Cut this otf just below the waist, and 
gather t(j it five l)readtlis of matei-ial, stretching the shirt as 
much as ])ossihle, and holding the skirt as loose as ])ossihle, 
while sewing them together. The result is a skirt that can be 
slipped on over the head, whose waist fits the figure perfectlv, 
yet gives with every breath and has not a l)utton or Ijaiul 
about it. Foi" vei'v slender figures, a double skirt can be 
attached to (^ne waist, l)y making the skirt pai't twice as lono- 
as is required, and then folding it in the middle aiul gatherino- 
to the waist. These skirts, when made; of silk, are easilv 
laundered, shed the dust readily, and their soft artistic folds 
hold the di'ess away from the ligure in most graceful fashion. 

Tlie skirts, of course, nuiy be of any color desired. AVhen 
worn with a party gown, the skirt, as well as the other silken 
undergarments, should match it in cohjr. ISothing prettier 

GJ4) 



can be imagined than a graceful form clothed throughout in 
pale pink, or blue or yellow. Of course if white or black 
underwear is desired, it can be worn with any outside costume. 

With these garments, a woman who is inclined to einhrm- 
polnt^ or who has a very full bust, will find a bust supporter 
necessary. 

Indeed, the chief objection to rational dress comes from 
fleshy women, who use the argument of their particular defect 
to close the whole question. 

A bust su])])orter, plenty of exercise, learning to stand 
properly, (hxily bathing, shorter waists and long flowing lines 
in dress and outer garments, will in one year cause that ])ar- 
ticular deformity linown as flesh, to disappear. 





To crowd up the bust until it is double its natural size, to 
make great rolls of flesh under the arms, to pinch in the waist 
until the hips stand out like broad shelves, is only to call 
attention to existing defects, not to remedy them. 

If the abdominal muscles are strengthened by daily practice 
in bending forward and backward and to right and left, stand- 
ing upon toes and reaching npward, and due attention be 

(35) 



given to breathing exercises, the accumulation of fat about the 
waist and abdomen will begin to disappear and the gradual 
strengthening of the muscles will hold the remaining flesh so 
firmly that the slouchy appearance usually presented by stout 
people, will be avoided. 

In middle age, when the bosoms have a tendency to drop, a 
bust supporter becomes an absolute necessity. These, made 
of flexible whalebone or grass cloth, coming merely to the 




#/ 



sternum, leave the soft movable parts of the body free, allow 
the lungs full ]:>lav, and hold the bust firmly in place. 

The Xewell bust supporter'^ is the most acceptable one that 
I have, up to tiiis time, found, being well ventilated, durable. 



* Mrs. Xcwfll's Perfection Breast Supporter.— A perfect support for the lireast, coinliined with 
shoulder liraces and skirt supporter. May be worn with or without corsets. Tliis support removes 
the weight of the breasts from the dress waist, and places it upon the shoulders, producing a perfect 
sliaped bust and allowing a more elegant tit of dress than can bo obtained in any other way. The 
bands are elastic, allowing free and easy movement of body and arms. 

(36) 



and at the same time comfortable. Indeed, with a Kewell 
Breast Supporter, no woman, however fleshy, need look in the 
least flabby or untidy. 

To recapitulate, a woman is well equipped for all ordinary 
occasions when her wardrobe contains a change of Ypsihmti 
or Jaros combination garments f(^r Avinter, medium Aveight 
with high neck and long sleeves for spring and fall, and either 
silk or balbrig-o'an Avith low neck and short sleeves for summer 
wear; three pairs of tights, three undervests, a black and a 
white silk India petticoat, and three pairs of boys' socks, with 
a bust suj)})()rter or waist, if it is needed. 

I have friends in moderate circumstances who, with two 
suits of underwear, two pairs of tights, three pairs of socles, 
three undervests, two pairs of e(juestrian tights, and two silk 
petticoats, one black and one white, get along very comforta- 
bly indeed. 

I know a student who bought the combination underwear 
and saved its price that winter by washing the garments herself 
in lier own room. Smoothing irons not being a part of her 
outht, she pressed her garments into sha])e by piling her 
school books on them, and thus secured another triumph of 
mind over matter and a lean pocket book. 



m 



CHAPTER VIII. 

BREATHING EXERCISES. 

1st. Stand in military position. Place the Lands as liiuli 
and as far back as possible at the turn of the ribs. Send out 
the breath in a sigh. Inhale sloioly and audibly through the 
nose. Let the rib-muscles that pull open the rib cage remain 
passive during this exercise, and slowly fill the lung. Having 
inhaled all the air possible in this position, lift the shoulders 
and inhale until the lungs are completely filled. Retain the 
breath for ten seconds, using effort, if need be; resist the in- 
flination to expel the air immediately, for the object in this 
exercise is as much to gain conti'ol over the breath-impelling 
muscles of the thorax as to enlarge the air cells, and every 
surrender to the inclination renders this more difficult. The 
time of holding the breath is to be gradually increased to 
thirty or forty seconds, but begin with ten^ or even Jim 
seconds, and (jrajhidUij increase time of holdino:. Verij sloicl;/ 
exhale through a small a])erture in the teeth, using the con- 
sonant sound sh (as in shall). Repeat the above movement, 
omitting the sigh, but not as thoroughly as at first, the inhal- 
ing, holding and exhaling taking less time; inhale easily 
through the nostrils, exhale in a sigh and resume ordinary 
breathing. 

Practice the above but twice a day, in the middle of the 
forenoon and the afternoon; rej^eat the exercise each time. 
Never ])ractice a breathing exercise within an hour before or 
after eating. If this rule be not observed, indigestion is 
almost sure to be induced. See that the room is well wai-med 
and well aired, for the breath is taken through the mouth, 
])artlv for the ])urpose of regnlatiiiii' the escaping bi'catli by 
the ear (the ])U})il listening and so determining tiie imijciling 
force), and partly because it is easier for the ))upil to regulate 
the aperture when inhaling through the mouth than when iu- 

(38) 



haling tlirono-h the nose. There is no danger in this if the 
I'ooni is ventilated and warmed, for tlie stream of air is so 
sliglit that it is thoronghly wai-metl and moistened before 
reaching the lungs. A glass or rul)ber tube is excellent, and 
perhaps safer on the wliole, for inhalation. In cases of weak- 
ness, or of un(levelo])ed air cells, physicians often order these 
tubes; they can be obtained at any drug store. A goose quill, 
after passing a shawl pin tlirough the nib, will answer ev^ery 
])urpose. 

Impress upon the children the necessity of keeping the 
mouth closed and of breathing through the nostrils when 
running or in the cold winter air. The air, w^hen passing 
through the nose, is brought nearer the temperature of the 
lungs, warmed and moistened, and the delicate membranes of 
the lungs are not chilled. ]\Iost of the colds, lung fever and 
pneumonia could he ])revented were we careful to keep the 
school-rooms cooler, l)etter ventilated, and the children's 
mouths covered or closed upon tirst going out into the frosty 
air. 

2d. Place the hands upcm tlie floating ribs just aljove the 
waist line. lielax the muscles of the waist and ])ress slowly 
inward. Follow this by throwing outward the side muscles, 
willing the muscles to nuike this lateral movement and not 
accomplishing it by action of the brejith. Imagine that you 
have on a tight belt and try to burst it. I>e sure that the 
movement outward is a gradual and steady one. liepeat this 
exercise three times. 

Purpose — To give strength and rtexil)ility to the side muscles, 
which plav an important i)art in determining the force of a 
tone. 

3d. Place the hands in the same position as in Xo. 3, and 
expel the l)i-eath from that ])oint; immediately inhale, expand- 
ino- the sides against the hands. Ile])eat three times. 

Purpose — Intelligent direction of the breath, the use of the 
muscles of the thorax determining the force of tone, the voice 
l)eing soft or loud, pathetic or cold, broken or firm, as these 
muscles are relaxed or energized. 

-tth. Place the tips of the fingers at the waist just below 
the sternum and between the floating ribs, the tiiumbs ex- 
tended to the sides. Imped the l)reath through a small aper- 
ture in the lips from this central i)oint, the sides remaining 
passive, the action at the diaphragm being inward as the 



breath is sent outward. See that the chest does not fall during 
this exercise, and repeat three times. 

atli. Active chest followed by passive chest. Place one 
lumd uj)on the chest, the other upon the abdomen, and lift the 
chest directly upward; very slowly depress it, without the 
inhaling or exhaling of the breath. 

The chest represented by «, the abdomen by h. 

(a. 
Thus - — 
W ^ 
You take from h and give to a in the active chest, from a 

and give to h in the passive chest. Be careful during this 

exorcise to stand in the military position, perfectly erect, and 

not to til row out the abdomen b}^ bending the back. 

(ith. Stand in military ])osition. Place the tips of the 
fingers upon the chest just below the collar bone, and with the 
chest in a normal condition count five slowly, with consider- 
able force, seeing that the chest is immovable durino- the 
counting. 

Tth. Position the same as above, inhale an ordinary breath 
through the nostrils, and walk about the room counting ra])- 
idly on one breath as many as possible before the chest begins 
to fall. Stop the moment there is the slisfhtest depression. 

Many other exercises could 1)0 uumtioned, but these prop- 
erly given will be sufficient to accomplish what is desired, 
namely, development of tlie air cell, ccjnti'ol of the breath- 
impelling muscles, and strength and elasticity of the various 
tissues, cartilaii'es and muscles of the thorax. 



(40) 



CHAPTER IX. 

SOCIETY FOR THE PROMOTION OF PHYSICAL CULTURE AND 
CORRECT DRESS. 

The following are answers received from some of the mem- 
bers of the Society for Ph3^sical Culture and Improved Dress 
in answer to the question " What are you at present wearing 
in the way of underclothes?" It will be seen that there is no 
particular fashion of underwear adoj>ted, the ]irincipal thing 
being to get warmth witliout weight, and a uniform covering 
of the body witliout restriction. 

I WEAR in winter a medium weight union wool garuient which I find 
sufficient for moderate weather. In very cold weather I add black eques- 
trienne tights. Over this I wear a light weight dark silk skirt, buttoned to 
a white muslin waist which can be washed frequ?ntly. In summer I wear 
tlie light woven shirts and equestrienne drawers with either a pongee 

princess skirt or one of white muslin. 

E. R. J. 



I WEAR a gauze union suit for my first garment, then a bust girdle, and in 
the winter over these, a black Ypsilanti union suit. Fleece lined cotton 
hose, wool tights knee length. My skirt is of black satin hung from a wide 
yoke and falling just below the knee. I wear elastic garters above the 
knee. In the summer I wear the gauze suit except during the most in- 
tense heat. A union garment made of pongee silk, using Butterick pattern, 

and either the satin or pongee petticoat . 

A. W. J. 



We try to keep the temperature in our living room about sixty-five de- 
grees during the winter. I wear a lieavy balbriggan union suit, second 
Jaeger wool union suit and merino stockings; when going out, heavy silk 
tights. A sleeveless, low-necked, princess pattern, farmer's satin skirt; prin- 
cess dress. In summer, silk vest and tights; when very hot, cambric, low 
neck, sleeveless union suit, princess skirt, cotton stockings held by woven 
wire garters under knee. In spring and fall I change undergarments 
according to the weather, comfort being my only guide. 

L. T. C. 



I TAKE the most comfort in wearing in winter — first, a union all-wool 
suit, then very long wool hose, thirdly, a fine wool union garment— waist 

(41) 



and divided skirt comliiuod— low neck, no slopvos, but odf;ed with wool 
lace and made tt) fit i)erf'ectly so as to be ready I'or a silk skirt buttoned on 
at waist line, and my dress. 

I prefer tli<>se to equestriennes and liose. as I feel less restricted and it tills 
me upmori'. 1 have just enough waiintii. I use tlie finest silky flannel for 
the outer garment, and no other waist, of course. 

Summer I use a lightweight wool garment (union), or in very hot 
weather the balbriggan shirts and equestriennes, hose, and pongee waist and 

skirt combined, or a white cotton one. 

A. A. II. 



My first garment is a low-necked, short-sleeved, over the knee, lisle 
thread combination — very light weight: long, rather heavy cotton stockings 
sui>port(>d by elastics de{)endent on a girdle from the waist: a black alpaca 
petticoat, a Grecian bust supporter. 

The petticoat is finished at the waist by a smooth giidlc but is not hung 
from the waist. My dress completes my clothing. 1 never dressed so 
lightly before, but am perfectly warm, and delighted not to need flannels, 
although prepared to change the lisle thread for woolen combination if the 
weather grows severe. I have not worn tights this year when going out 
of doors as I have done formerly. 

L. D. 

M()ST satisfactory to me now is the gauze-linen or else the fish-netted linen 
midergarments ne.xt to the skin. Over this silk or wool, with stockings 
uuited or separate. If indei)endent, the stockings are supported by over- 
shoulder supporters. 

One skirt, having a skclctDii waist. In cxticmcly cold weather, the skirt 
may l)e heavy and extend ovci- cliest and aims. It may be perfectly plain 
and of blanketing, or it may be of line and ricli fabric and handsomely 
ornamented. X<> cdisct or nndcrwaisi nrcd \h' used, and I do not require 
one, as the well develoiied muscles liold the Ixxly nji and in sliape far bet- 
ter. The shoes are, of course, soft, and have low. or no lirels. 

Next to the dress or gown proper may be worn a silk or muslin slip, and 
exposed at neck, wrist, and side of skirt, if dress isoj);ii. 

C. Le F. 



For summer I wear a low-necked short-sleeved, over-the-knee lisle thread 
combination. I have two sets, one light, and a hi a vicr set for cool days: 
change with the wt>ather: lojig stockings suppt)rted by elastics dependent 
from a Grecian bust supporter: waist ami skirt combined, low neck, and no 
sleeves. 

For wintei', a \\int('r all wool suit, long wool stockings: my combination 
petticoat made \\ itli a slioit skirt and a silk skirt buttou'-d on at waist line. 

My gown, always made in one i)iece, completes my clothing. 

My clothing brini; perfectly loose inqu-oves my cu-cvdation, and I am com- 
fortabl(> with verv little undi'rclothing. 

L. B. T. K. 

I HAVK been astonished to lind out how utterly and lio])elessly ignorant 
women in riu'al districts are regarding comfortable underwear: hopelessly 
I say, because of their unwillingness to adopt anything new or different 
from the vile so-called " cotton" flannel. I wonder if there is a place bad 
enough for the inventor of such fabric ? 

(42) 



i found women otherwise intellij;ent, up to all new ideas upon otlier sub- 
jects, wlio had never heard of tights or union underwear, wearing many 
white skirts with bands cutting into their waists. 

I have found the union suits detective, inasmuch as they are too short m 
the body and too close fitting across the bust. * This complaint is universal, 
I find. I had, several years ago. union suits for summer wear, woven knee 
lengths, wide like umbrella drawers, but I have been unable to get them of 
late years. They were of fine cotton and of good shape. I never found 
out the name of" the manufacturers, but have often thought that some one 
who made the goods might be inclined to put them upon the market agam. 
I have seen suits advertised of late with full busts, but not being in nn- 
mediate need of underwear have not seen them. 

The tights I find entirely satisfactory, both wool and silks. The Grecian 
bust support is entirely satisfactory. Those who wear them consider them 
perfect. All skirts I wear fastened to waists, and gowns made without 
lining, and skirts either sewed fast or buttoned to well fitted waists of silk, 
of fine firm linen or cotton, or buttoned to " guimpes." 

K. H. W. 



MRS. stowk's appp:al to women in ISGO. 

[Witli the '-c.M-aial consent" of Hnn.'ht.ui, Mifflin & Co., we reprint the folluwing from 
Mrs. Stowe's Chimney Corner Papers, with added emphasis,] 

It is the greatest misfortune of the civilized world, at the present hour, 
that the state of morals in France is apparently at the lowest ebb, and con- 
sequently the leadership of fashion is entirely in the hands of a class of 
women who could not be admitted into good society m any country. 
Women who can never have the name of wife-who know none of the 
ties of family-these are the dictators whose dress and equipage and ap- 
pointments give the law, first to France, and through France to the civil- 
ized world. Such was the confession of Monsieur Dupin. made m a late 
speech before the French Senate, and acknowledged, with murmurs of as- 
sent on all sides, to be the truth. This is the reason why the fashions have 
such an utter disregard of all those laws of prudence and economy which 
regulate the expenditures of families. They are made by women whose 
sole and only hold on life is personal attractiveness, and with whom to 
keep this up, at anv cost, is a desperate ne.-essity. No moral quality, no 
association of puritV, truth, modesty, self-denial, or family love, comes m 
to hallow the atmosphere about them, and create a sphere of lovelmess 
which brightens as mere physical beauty fades. The ravages of tune and 
dissipation must be made up by an unceasing study of the arts of the toilet 
Artists of all sorts, moving in their train, rack all the stores of ancient and 
modern art for the picturesque, the dazzling, and the grotesque; and so, 
P^st these circles of society should carry all before them, and enchant every 
husband, brother and lover, the staid and lawful Penelopes leave the hearth 
and home to follow in their triumphal march and imitate their arts. Thus 
it goes in France; and in England, virtuous and domestic princesses and 
peeresses must take obediently what has been decreed by their rulers in the 
demi monde of France; and we an America have leaders of fashion wno 
make it their pride and glory to turn New York into Pans, and t« k^ 

*Mrs- W. is above the average in size. 



even stop with all that is f^oinf^on thore. So the whole world of womankind 
is really marching under tiii' command of these leaders. The love of dress 
and glitter and fashion is getting to be a morbid, unhealthy epidemic, 
which really eats away the nobleness and purity of woman. 

In France, as Monsieur Dupin, Edmond About and Michelet tell us, 
the extravagant demands of love of dress lead women to contract debts 
unknown to their husbands, and sign obligations which are paid by the 
sacrifice of honor, and thus the purity of the family is continually imder- 
mined. In England there is a voice of complaint, sounding from the lead- 
ing periodicals, that the extravagant demands of female fashion are 
bringing distress into families, and making marriages impossible; and some- 
thing of the same sort seems to have begun here. * * 

We have just come through a great struggle in which our women have 
borne an heroic part — have shown themselves capable of any kind of en- 
durance and self-sacrifice; and now we are in that reconstructive state 
which makes it of the greatest consequence to ourselves and the world that 
we understand our own institutions and position, and learn that, instead of 
following the corrupt and wornout ways of the Old World, we are called on 
to set tlie exami)le of a new state of society — noble, simple, pure and re- 
ligious: and women can do more towards this even than men, for women 
are the real architects of society. 

'■ Viewed in this light, even the small frittering cares of woman's life — the 
attention to buttons, trimmings, thread, and sewing silk — may be an expres- 
sion of their patriotism and their religion. A noble-hearted woman puts a 
noble meaning into even the commonplace details of life. The women of 
America can, if they choose, hold back their country from following in 
the wake of old, corrupt, worn-out, effeminate European society, and make 
America the leader of the world in all that is good. * * 

Where there is a will there is a way. Only resolve that you will put the 
true beauty first — that, even if you do have to seem unfashionable, you 
will follow the highest beauty of womanhood — and the battle is half gained. 
» * * It requires on] !i an anny of girls animated ivith this noble pur- 
pose to declare independence in America, and emancipate us from the de- 
crees and tyrannies of French actresses and ballet dancers. GIRLS! YOU 
YET CAN, IF YOU WILL, SAVE THE REPUBLIC. 



In 1800. ]\Irs. Caroline M. Severance, who was the first president of the 
New England Woman's Club, -wTote concerning the subjection of American 
women to foreign dictation in dress: — 

" It is as unworthy them as submission to English tyranny would have 
been on the part of our fathers. More injurious, also, as it threatens the 
ruin of all physical vigor for the generations yet to come. But I am com- 
forted in this matter by the growing attention to i)h}'sical exercise and de- 
velopment — which must necessitate a more healthful style of dress — and 
which Heaven and all good women forbid to be o}dy a passing fashion ! " 



Mrs. Alice Freeman Palmer, says:—" Women need no other one thing so 
much as freedom of movement in dress." 



Mrs. Mary A. Livermore, writes — "I will authorize you to use my name 
iu favor of the strongest di-ess reform that may be inaugurated." 



CHAPTER X. 

NATIONAL COUNCIL OF WOMEN. 

Extract from the Report of the Committee on Dress, by its 
Chairman, Mrs. Frank Johxson, to be given at the next 
meeting, in Boston, of the JN'ational Council of AVomen : 

A RAINY DAY DKKSS. 

A movement toward re-adoi)tion of a dress suitable for rainv 
days is mailing itself felt all over the country. Concerted 
action will hasten the day of emancipation from our old 
enemy to health, comfort and neatness — the bedraggled skirt. 

The bicycling costume, worn with knickerbockers, made of 
clavenette or storm serge, bicycle boots or cloth leggino-s, with 
soft felt hat, offer suggestions which can be varied to suit the 
Avearer. 

ARTISTIC SUGGESTIONS. 

If the dressmak'er is merely an artisan, she may need help 
in designing an artistic costume upon rational lines. 

The following are among some rules adopted by the Chi- 
cago Dress Club, which have been found most hei])ful. Tlie 
lines of the gown should follow those of the natural bodv, as 
represented in classic sculpture; the arm-hold describing the 
top of the shoulder joint; the sleeve following the shoulder 
line, or at least not contradicting it; the front line below the 
bust having a gentle outward curve; the whole ]iresenting the 
contour of the Yenus de Milo, and not inward Y-lilce lines. 

2. Every part of the gown should be suspended from the 
shoulders, and should ai)])ear to be so suspended. 

3. The dress should be loose enough to permit free and 
graceful movement. 

4. The form of construction should be suited to the fabric — 
simple forms for heavy goods, and gathers for thin materials. 

5. The costume should be genuine tiiroughout. If made 

(45) 



of two materials, its prototype would be the gowns of the 
earl V mitldle ages, one worn over another. If there is ])ar(lon- 
able simulation, that simulation should be consistent; i. c, 
where oiK^ material seems to be that of au undergarment (like 
the guimj)e), it should apj)ear to be au undergarment, every 
time that particular material appears. 

0. The decoration of the gown should be subordinated to 
the o'own itself; the ornament should sei've, or seem to serve, 
the pui'poses of strengthening the edges, uniting the parts, or 
holding together. 

7. TIu» gown should be suited to the personality of the 
wearer, in color, texture and form. 

nilJDS, WIX(iS AND FEATUEES EMPLOYED AS OARXITUKE. 

Fi'om the school room there should certainly emanate a sen- 
timent which would discourage forever the slaughter of birds 
for ornament. 

The use of birds and their })luuuige is as inartistic as it is 
cruel and barbarous. 

TUF, IIAI.O. 

'• One London dealer in l)irds received, when the fashion was 
at its height, a single consignment of thirty-two thousand dead 
humming birds, and another received, at one time, thirty thou- 
sand aquatic birds and three hundred thousand ])airs of 
wings." 

Tliinlc what a price to pay, 
Fai-es so briglit and gay, 
Just for a hat ! 
Flowers uiivisited, mornings unsung, 
Sea-ranges bare of the wings that o'erswung, — 
Bared just for tlmt ! 

Tliink of the others, too, 
Otliers and mother i^, too, 
Bright-Eyes in liat ! 
Hear you no mothei'-groan floating in air, 
Hear you no little moan, — birdling"s despair, — 
Somewhere for that? 

Caught 'mid some mother-work, 
Torn by a hunter Turk, 
Just for your hat ! 
Plenty of mother-heart yet in tiic world: 
All the more wings to tear, carefully twirled 1 
Women want that ? 
(46) 



Oh, but the sliame of it, 
01), but the blauie of it, 
Price of a hat ! 
Just fV)r a jauntiness bi'ightenin<;- tlie street ! 
Tliis is your lialo, O faces so sweet, — 
Di'dtli and fortliat! 

— 11'. C. Gdiiiictt. 



ADOPTING PRKVAILING STYLKS. 

One need not entirely discard prevailing styles. It is often 
possible to ada])t them to the needs of the wearer, so that they 
may be both l)eautifnl and hygienic. 

The princess, cnt so low as to form a very low corsage, worn 
with the shirt waist, obviates the distinct objections to tiiat 
garment, /. e., removing the weight of the skirt fronr the hips 
and preventing the al)rupt line at the waist. 

TO TKACnEKS. 

The dress committee of the Xational Conncil of Women 
appeal to yon for aid in secnring the attention of girls and 
3^onng women npon the imj)ortant snbject of rational dress. 

In the interest of this movement toward a dress which shall 
giv^e greater freedom to the body, and at the same time ])ossess 
greater artistic beanty than the prevailing style, will you 
give short talks to your girls upon the toi)ics suggested in the 
accompanying circular^ The dress committee, in ])ursuance 
of its work, will gladly furnish you with literature and all 
practical help within its power. 



(47) 



CIIArXER XI. 

BOOKS FOR STUDY. 

The propaganda envelope of the society for the promotion 
of pliysical culture and correct dress, selected by Mrs. F. W. 
Parker, Chairman of Propaganda Committee. 

1. " Annual Club Book." 

2. " Artistic Dress," Mrs. Frances M. Steele. 

3. "Fashion's Slaves," B. O. Flower. 

4. "The Unreasonableness of Modern Dress," Bayard 
Holmes, M. D. 

6. " The Corset," K. L. Dickerson. 

6. " The Influence of Dress in Producing Decadence of 
American Women," J. H. Kellogg, M. D. 

7. " Scientific Shoe," Samuel Appleton. 

8. " Perfection Bust Supporter," Mrs. C. D. JSTewell. 

9. " Hygienic Underwear," Jaros. 

10. "Ypsilanti." 

The entire envelope sent by mail, post])aid, on receipt of 
fifty cents. 

Mrs. Laura B. T. Kett, 
3552 Prairie Ave., Chicago, 111. 
" Beauty of Form and Grace of Vesture," by Frances Mary 
Steele and Elizabeth Steele iVdams. 

Todd, Mp:ad & Co., 
^^ew York, N. Y. 



RECOMMKXDKD BY" TUE LONDON " HEALTHY AND ARTLSTIC DRESS 

UNION." 

"Chapter on Greek Dress," by Lady ]\[illington Evans. 
" Ten Centuries of Toilette," translated b}^ Mrs. Cashil 
Iloeg. 

"The Art of Peauty," by Mrs. A. P. Hawies. 

(48) 



"The Influence of Clotliing on llealtli;' by F. Srioec, F. E. 
C. S. 

'' Health Culture," by Dr. Jaeger. 

" Health and Beauty in Dress," by Ada S. Uallus. 

^^ The Dress Problem," by Edith Ward. 

"Dress, Health and Beauty," by Ward, Lock & Co. 

'' Form and Color," Liberty A: ( o. 

Lontlon Jonrnal Aglais, Miss Amy Theobald, Xo. 33 Cool- 
liurst lioad. Crouch End, London. 

'• Simple and Practical Methods in Dress Befoi'm," Bobert 
L. Dickerson, M. D., Brooklyn, N. Y. 

" Fashion's Slaves," B. O. Flower, Arena Puljlishing Co., 
Copley Square, J)oston, Mass. 

"Report of Committee on Dress," National Council of AVo- 
men of the United States, Mrs. Frank Johnson, No. 38()T 
Langley Ave., Chicago, 111. 

" Dress Reform in America," Frances E. Russell, August 
Arena. 

" AVoman's AVay Out." 

" Progress vs. F^ashion." 

" History of the AVoman's Costume Reform in the United 
States of America," Mary E. Tillotson, A'ineland, jS^ew Jersey. 

" The Influence of Dress in Producing the Physical Deca- 
dence of American A\^omen," J. II. Kellogg, INF. D., i'attle 
(Jreek, Mich. 

" Economical Hints for Dress and Health," Mrs. C. D. 
Newell, Chicago, 111. 



(49) 



CHAPTER XI I. 

PATTERNS. 

In my upeniiiii; i):ii';igra])h, 1 stated that tliis ])ainj)hlet was 
in answer to the many letters received from all over the coun- 
try in regard to matters of dress. The gowns here given are 
not put forth as by any means perfect illustrations of wiiat 
ought to be, but rather some of the more successful gowns 
which have been evolved, covering the ])eriod from 1S88 to 
1896. I have watched the movement for improved dress very 
closely and have talked in many States, getting frank and free 
expression from all sorts and conditions of women. Two 
things stand in the way of tiiis movement: lack of conviction 
on the one hand, and on the other, an absolute helplessness in 
the face of dilficuhies whieli immediat(^ly present themselves 
when a departure from conventional dress is essayed. 

l^)elieving with Horace Greeley, that the way to resume is 
to resume, I hold that the ])rob1em will never be solved if we 
wait for the ideal, or expect to achieve universal success. Oft- 
entimes, that which is artistic, because it is so wide a de})arture 
from the conventional, appears to honest critics as merely 
theatrical; it is, therefore, better to see what can be done in 
the way of modifying and adapting the conventional dress, 
that it may, in some degree, approximate to the comfort and 
beauty that the wearer desires. The conventional dress, at 
the })resent writing, lends itself very j'eadily to the cause, 
(" Large waists are in fashion this year,") as will be seen by 
the wool dress nuirked, 1890. Every fasliion admits of modi- 
fication and one can satisfy conscience, and at the same time 
keep within bounds, thus silently convincing many women, 
whom it would otherwise be impossible to convince. 

Mrs. ^N'ewell, who has herself been for many years experi- 
menting, will furnish j)atterns of any of the dresses shown, or 
cloth and ])a per models in two or more colors if desired. It 
is at her suggestion that this pamphlet contains so much that is 

(50) 



practical. She says every mail brings letters asking for help 
in designing gowns and adjusting underwear. 

When women once know how to begin, their dwu taste and 
judgment will show them how to continue. To take the first 
step costs. 

DIKKCTloNS FOK TAKINlJ PKOl'EK ^[KASLKES FOR IMPROVED DRESS 

i'ATTERNS. 

Pattern of full dress and petticoat, to wear under the dress, 
made of chea]) cambric; price, $3.00 for both. 

l*a])ei' pattern for the dress, 50c., and 5()c. for ])etticoat. 

When ordeririiT, please say of what goods the dress is to be 
made, and for what occasion it is intended; also 

Number inches around the body, above bust and under 
arms. 

Number inches around the body directly under bust and 
under ai'ius. 

Number inches from armpit to top of hip bone, measured 
on naked l)ody. 

Numlti'i' inches between arm holes of oi'dinary dress at 
shouhK'r l)hides. 

Numl)er iiu-hes around neck. 

Number inches from chin, when held back against neck, to 
the floor. 

Number of inches from nape of neck to floor behind. 

Number inches from middle of back, over elbow, to wi'ist 
bone. 

Number of inches fi'om ai'mpit to wrist bone. 

Number of inches around hips. 

Height. 

Color of complexion. 

J-'}>r o/'d'r l>hiiil-x fipf parjcK ?■">. ?^, ?7. 

The patterns are cut in 8 si/.es, fntm .'jd to 44 inches, bust 
measure, 

(01) 




Puttei'ii of ffiiTs divided skirt sent bv mail for tweiitv cents. 
The slcirt, ready-made, for a girl from 8 to 12 years of age, 
ill domestic gingham or blue drilling; price $1.00; made in 
flannel, price $2.00. 

When ordering, give age and waist measure. 

Mrs. C. D. Np:well, 
223 Dickey Ave., 

Chicago. 



(52) 




Fig. 1. 



The lace guimpe made of Oriental lace, tying with narrow 
ribbons at the back under the collar. The dress is a blue pon- 
gee silk, surj)lice front, cool and comfortable for summer. 



(53) 




Fig. 2. 



Figured muslin, sur})lice front. 



(54) 




Fig. 3. 

Olive green silk; olive green velvet waist, trimmed with 
jeweled passementerie. 



(55) 




Fig. 4. 



Gray grenadine over gray satin. Satin sasli of darker gray, 
garniture pink daisies. 



{00, 




Fig. 5. 



This photograph is badly taken. The dress has ver}^ good 
lines and would be pronounced a success by the most conserva- 
tive. It is made of English serge, the same material as the 
cloak next described. It is princess back with full plaits at 
the waist, which make a coat-like effect; a jacket front, a vest 
of dark red satin over which is a heavy silk passementerie 
without beads; collar and cuffs the same as the vest. 

(57) 




Fig. 5. 



Again, comparing this dress, made four years ago, with the 
coaventional dress of to da}^ C^^')' i^ niade witii a full silk or 
satin front, a cuff flaring forward and covering the hand to 
the knuckle, the ])uff of the sleeve made a bit higher and 
some kind of stiffening put in the bottom of the skirt to make 
it stand out, it could be worn without any one for an instant 
thinking the wearer " singular" or "pronounced." 

(r,8) 




Fig. 5. 



A cloak of heavy English serge, color cadet blue. It comes 
to the bottom of the dress, the body of cai)e and smaller capes 
are lined with dark wine satin, and is fastened at the throat 
with an oxidized silver clasp. The collar is high and can be 
turned up in cold weather to protect the ears. The untrimmed 
cape is for spring and fall, the fur trimmed is more heavily 
lined and suitable for winter. If a cloak titted in at the waist 

(59) 




Fig. 5. 



is I'cMjuii'ed, the " Jiiissiaii (,'ircular " made by JMai'shall Field 
A: Co., Cliicago, is among tlie best. 



(60) 




Fia. 5. 

Electric blue cloth, lined with dark-red satin. This cloak is 
the same pattern as one previously shown, but heavily lined 
and trimmed Avith fur for winter wear. 



(61) 




FlLi. 0. 



A brown Avoolen striped goods, oiio stripe light, tlic dark 
sti'ipe mixed sliades of brown. The jacket of brown velvet- 
een, clas))e(l in front with oxidized silver clasp. The guinipe 
is (jf suiah silk. st)'i{)ed with a light brown gimp, the same 
being used in the collar. This dress was made in 181H». To 
make it suitable for the present style, the skirt should be gored 
to Hare a little at the bottom and the collar made higher, the 

(02) 




Flu. (3. 



sleeves longer, I'eachiui^ to the kmiclcles and flariiiii' ;it the bot- 
tom. The velveteen should be used to lace the sleeve at the 
bottom. 



(63) 




Fig. T. 



This di-ess is very suitable for liouso. rainv day, shopping, 
etc. The waist can be made of silk or linen at choice, and 
changed i-eadily when soiled. It looks as well on a stout 
woman as on a thin woman, and because of the variety of 
waists that can be worn is a most suitable dress for all kinds 
of weather. The illustration shown is a ])lain brown camel's 
hair, the waist of brown silk, a lighter shade than the dress, 
but of the same tone. 

(04) 




Fig. 8. 



A black silk petticoat, buttoned in the back, made afttn- the 
princess style. For winter this can be made of silesia, drilliiiii', 
or any other material for the upper part, the lower jmrt of 
merino. Again, if I were making- a skirt to be worn with the 
dresses of to-day, I should plait the merino at the back and 
g'ore the skirt, making it as full as required. Nothing else 
would be necessary that it might be worn with the conven- 
tional full skirt of to-day. 

(Go) 




Vio. 9. 



Materiiil for this dress is Venetian Brown velveteen and the 
heavy corded silk of lighter shade. It is laced in the back, 
finished with a velveteen collar, velveteen ])uff at the shoulder, 
also pai't of the sleeve being made of coi'ded silk and finished 
with a })lain band of the velveteen. The front of the waist is 
entirely of velveteen carried plainly down at the side sloping 
in to the waist. The skirt is fastened at the side, top of the 

(66) 



skirt coming high on the waist, cutting across the guimpe, 
which is under the bust. The guimpe is made of silk the 
same as the goods and is gathered at neck. Lace about six 
inches in depth is plaited in the center and carried plain for 
three inches, plaited again, then the ends brought down and 
fastened inside of front of the skirt. The lining of the skirt 
is sewed to the waist of the dress but the outside velveteen 
piece is unlined, being simply turned at the edge and caught 
lightly to prevent any fraying of the exh^e. This is done that 
it may fit smoothly across the front, which could not be if it 
were lined. This is an exceedingly graceful gown, suitable 
for home and evening wear and very economical, as velveteen 
is an excellent wearing material. It has the effect of a tea 
gown without being fussy in detail. 



(67) 





Fig. 10. 



Phiin colored broadcloth, velvet jackt^t, triniiiHMl with l)lack 
inarteii I'ur. Hat ol" plum colored I'elt, triinmcd with black 
satin ribbon and black ostrich tips. 



(Gb) 




Fig. 10. 



(69) 




Fia. 11. 



Foundation slip, a black surah silk; covering, ordinary black 
figured lace. The waist and I'ront are black bi'ussels net in 
fine plaits. The collar and girdle of fine bead passementerie. 
The dress is much more graceful out of the picture than in it, 
the lights being such as renders it almost impossible to get the 
real effect of the dress. It was made in 1892. It only needs 
the addition of another petticoat, a bit of lace plaited in at the 

(70) 




Fig. 11. 



collar and a fuller g'uim])e to make it unnoticed as anything 
out of the common, at the present writing, 1S90. 



(71) 




Fia. 13. 



Gray cloth with embroidered figures in shaded grays. Gray 
velvet jacket and lighter gray silk guimpe. Gray suede shoes. 



(:-3) 




Fig. 13. 



(73) 



^^^^^^^^^^^^~ 




^^^f^f-'^ 


1 ^^^^^H 


^^^^mf^(^\ 


' /' 'Jp*^ ^^^^^^H 




1 






i 


^^^^^^^^^^^^1 

^^^^^^^^^^H 


^^^^^^^^^^■-7 

^^n 


^^^^H 


■p' 'wt^ 


^H 


^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^ ~ 


kJi 



Fig. 13. 



This dress was exhibited at the World's Columbian Exposi- 
tion, and like many of the light dresses represented, is more 
effective out of the picture than in. The under dress is of 
yellow satin, comparatively plain in front and full ))laits in the 
back. Sleeves are a doul)le puff of yellow satin without any 
covering. The waist at the neck is short, making a full ruffle 
about the neck, the goods being plaited in at the waist. There 

(74) 



is a plaited ruffle of the yellow satin at the bottom of the 
skirt. The overdress is of yellow Madras lace, fastened on 
either shoulder with an ornament, open at front and tied in 
a loose knot at back, at waist by a braided cord of yellow 
silk with tassel ornaments at both ends. 




Fig. 14. 



Art silk, velvet passementerie, exhibited at Columbian Ex- 
position. A very beautiful dress but badly photographed. 

(75) 




Fig. 15. 



This is one of the most satisfactory dresses that I have ever 
had. It is a lio^ht blue gown, barred off by navy blue stripes. 
The material with which it is combined is cadet blue satin. It 
is a full skirt sewed on the Avaistand fastening at the side. If 
making up such goods again, I should have no seam down the 
center of the back, and tiie side pieces should start from the 
shoulder seam, instead of curving into the arm-hole. 

(76) 




Fig. 15. 



Airaiii, all that would be necessarv to make this dross, which 
was made five years ago, a dress of to-day, ^\■()uld I)e to make 
the lapels of the jacket wider, and to raise tlie puff of the 
sleeve just above the elbow. 

The dress is of all-wool cashmere, has l)eeii washed twice — 
the satin being renewed once — and has been in constant wear 

for live years. 

(77) 




Fig. 10. 

This is an evening dress; a ])lain silk slip of nile green, cov- 
ered with net lace and confined with ribbon of the same 
shade. 



(7S) 




Fia. 17. 



Striped surah silk, Avitli sash lined with yellow silk and vest 



faced with o;ros-":rain silk. 



(79) 




Fig. 18. 

A black sumli silk, very glossy surface, dotted over with 
yellow coi'ii flowers, the material looking' very much less 
s])()tted than would a])pear from the })hotogra|)li. It has a full 
hack gathered iu the centei" the front is gored and I'ather 
[)lairi. The hack of the waist is plain at the shouhhM's and 
gathei'td in at the centre of the holt; the front is also plain at 



(80) 




Fig. is. 

the shoulders and gathered in slii;litly at tlie waist. The l)elt, 
a wide piece of the goods, drawn ])lainly around the waist, 
fastens at the side. The trimming is a coarse l)lack silk net 
m line plaits, edged with three nari'ow ril)l)ons of different 
shades, Avhich reproduce the colors in the dress. Thei'e is a 
band of the net about tlie neck, finished with a rcjsette in front. 



(81) 



There is also a knot or rosctto in the front wiiere the heading 
of the rulHo, a twisted band of net upon whicli the ribbon is 
sewn, conies together. The narrow ribbon is sewn iin(h3r the 
net and not outside, as is customary, that it may tone in with 
the dress. This dress was made live years ago. 

If I were making the dress to-(hiy I shoiihl have the slcirt 
dare a httle more at the bottom, should have one ])uff at the 
top of sleeve, which would end just ahovc the elbow, and two 
rosettes of the ti-imming at the back of the neck; would also 
make the waist ruffle two inches deeper-. This would l)e all 
the change necessary to make the dress more in accordance 
with the fashion of to-day (1800). 



^~') 




na. 19. 



A dress of plain gray cashmere, jacket, front, collar and 
lower part of sleeves of a darker gray velvet. The dress 
would be improved by putting a fold of the goods at the bot- 
tom instead of ruffle. It is an exceedingly pretty house dress. 
Is made with one seam in the back. If desired, the edge of 
the jacket can be finished with a fold of the goods or a pretty 



(83) 




Fl(i. 1!). 



</]u\]). The sleeve as it comes over the hiiiul llai'cs slio-litlv. js 
lined witii the i;)'ay velvet. aii<l the pull' of sU'eve siioukl be 
made a little hirii-er. 



(84) 




Fk;. 20. 



This suit consists of blonso waist, Eton jaclcet, circular ca))G 
and divided slvirt. Tlie slvirt is adjustaljle any length one may 
require for walking, and if it is muddy, the skirt can be short- 
ened or lengthened while on the street, with no inconvenience. 
This skirt is so fashioned that the divide does not show while 
walking, except when taking a very long step. Price of pat- 
tern of entire suit, 50 cents. 




Fig. 21. 



Black and white checked silk. Coat back, falling over the 
skirt; the skirt is sewed to the waist under the coat back, which 
is fastened at the sides, forming the center breadths of the 
back. The revere and bottom of sleeves are finished by a 
narrow black jet gimp. The front is of pink satin, over which 
is sewed three rows of lace insertion. The lace insertion is of 
black, embroidered in blue and pink, the collar being of pink 

(86) 




Fig. 21. 



satin covered with the h^ce insertion. The fron is separate 
from the dress, is hooked at the back under the colhir, fastened 
at the side and at the waist by hooks. The belt is a wide 
band unlined, of same material as the dress. Three fronts are 
worn with this dress, the pink one described, one ot red satin 
covered with cream fish net, and one front of same goods us 
dress. 

(87) 




Fio. 23. 



Exhibited at the World's Fair. Keene coat, front view. 



(88) 



<^HR^!w^B i\ >' 




ii 


tm' 




ffi 


ff ' 
I ^ 


1 li 


'if 


! 


II^- ^ 



Fig. 23. 

Description of A. A. Silk Gown. — The fronts are carried 
right up to the neck. Tliere are two or three inch phiits at 
the neck and again at the waist. These fronts are a little 
gored under the arm, about as a night-gown would be. The 
backs are much prettier with a deep gore taken out of the 
middle. Front and back are laid on a little fitted underwaist 



(89) 



and seamed to it. There is a yoke in the back to which the 
back breadths are attached nnder, and it let in at the waist 
line. 

A very pretty house dress, made of plain brown Henrietta, 
silk and wool; the girdle made of braids, beaded, and ending in 
bead pendants. The braids are of different widths, the same 
])attern, graduated widths, growing narrow^er as they come to 
the front. The dress w^ould be quite as effective without the 
j)endants, with simply a plait or braid of gimp coming to a 
point in tlie front and carried straight across the waist, or 
pointed in the l)ack as w^ell. This dress was made in 1889, and 
if made to-day would have the mutton-leg sleeve rather full 
at the top, and the lace guimpe higher at the throat and 
fuller. 



90 




Fig. 24. 



White batiste with pale pink stripes and bunches of violets, 
worn over white embroidered petticoat same as the embroidery 
in the front of the waist. Leghorn hat trimmed with differ- 
ent colored roses and green ribbon. 



(91) 




Fig. 2.-). 



A lii^lit cream-colored silk with pale lavender flowers and 
faint olive leaves. It is similar in make to the black surah 
with corn Howers, with the excej)tion that the Ijack of the 
waist is perfectly plain and the skirt ])laited in one broad 



(92) 




Fig. 2^). 



])l;iit at the back instead of being ^aliicred. Tlir triiiiiuiiii:- is 
(lark ])ui'|)le velvet, the 3^oke. colkir and cutt's InAnu: made of 
the velvet and covered with duchess kice. The skii-t is sewed 
to the waist and is worn without a bolt. 



(93) 







Fig. 26. 



This beautiful dress is of brocaded silk, and was one of the 
dresses exhibited at the Worhi's Cokinibian P]x)iosition by the 
Society for Pliysical Culture and Correct Dress. The jacke^t 
front is of velvet trimmed with passementerie. At the neck 
the material is shirred: white lace as finish. 



(94) 




Fig. 27. 



The material for this dress is a Persian cloth, light green, 
decorated in many colors. It is a princess gown, the lace of 
the jacket being of a light brown which tones in with certain 
shades of the dress. The vest is of salmon pink silk covered 
with light green silk net, the collar of green velvet. The 
heavy guipure lace, of which the jacket is made, was lined 

(9oJ 




Fig. 27. 

with ])ale tj^reen, and in effect was not nearly so dark as the 
j)icture rej)resents. 

This dress was maih' five years a;^o; and ai^ain, to l)e more 
conventional, would only necessitate the flarini^- skirt, the puff 
of the sleeve carried hio^her, and the front of the lace made 
jacket fashion with full jabot of lace at the throat. 



(96) 




Flo. 38. 

It is of India silk, shirred at the neck, the shining making 
a kind of round yoke. The fullness also shirred at the belt, 
and the gored skirt a little full at the waist, and that also 
shirred. A girdle may be worn with this gown, or it is pretty 
without one. 



(97) 




Fig. I'y. 



A blue-green cameVs hair; green velvet ]aj)els and collar. 
Vest of light blue satin, trimmed with bead ])assementerie 
about collar and girdle. On the blue satin front is sewed 
lace insertion, into which are worked pale pink and blue 
figures. The skirt is nuide se])arate. Ihittons sewed on skirt 
l)and and fastened by loo])s of braid to the waist. The neck, 
although seemingly high, flares out in such a manner that 
tiiere is perfect freedom of movement. 

(98) 




Fig. 29. 



(99) 




Fig. 30. 

Bicycle -6'?</^.— Divided skirt made of blue serg-e. Leggings 
of the same, short jacket worn over the sweater. The skirt 
can be worn either with silk or linen waist according to the 
weather. This dress can be ordered, jacket, skirt and leggings, 
of Marshall Field, costing all the way from $17 to %'60, ac- 
cordin"- to material. 



(100) 




Fig. 30, 



(101) 




Fia. 31. 



"White cashmere dress; accordion plaited skirt finislied with 
lace ruffle at neck and sleeves, Avith broad lace colhir. 



(102) 




Fig. 32. 

Plain grav surah silk. Waist and skirt separate. Tiie top 
of skirt finished with a narrow ribbon belt. The sleeves and 
vest are of satin, and the body and skirt are of the surah. 
The satin is figured, being roses in shades of pink, crimson and 
dark crome. ^Collar and cuffs are of crimson velvet with 
broad laco collarette coming to a point in back and front. 



(103) 




Fig. 32. 



(104) 




Fig. m. 

Figured muslin, lace at neck, bottom of waist corded, skirt 
sewed to waist. 



(105) 




Fig. 33. 



(106) 




Fig. 34. 



It was impossible to get this dress to sliow its beauty. It is 
really one of the most successful dresses that I have ever seen 
worn. It is for a young girl, and is made plain in front with 
gored lines at the side, fitting it loosely to the form. In design 
the back is like No. 23, white satin bows on the shoulder. It 
is finished around the neck wath a white satin cord, but a 
headino; of lace can be used if so desired. The material shown 
is white surah silk, but it can be made in cashmere, or any 
light goods suitable for evening wear. 

(lOT) 





^^^^^^^^^^^^m^Vj^^^^^^H^^^^^^^^^^^^H 








^■ttB^i-'S^ ' ' ^^^^Sfe^^^^^^^^^H 




^^^^^^^ " ^^^^^^^l^^^^^^^l 








^^^^^^H' ^^^^^l^^^^^^^^l 




H^i <''' i' 'A r4 


^^H 




H ' 


^^^^H 






^^ 








^'fi il^H 


BB5S;v<-'- - - 


-'i^HHH^^^^^^^H 



Fig. 35. 



Gray French sjitteen. with bunches of lilies of the valley, 
ill white and old pink — old pink guini])e, gray suede shoes. 
Hat of gray Neapolitan, trimmed with gray i-il)l)(>n and pink 
crushed roses. 



ao8) 




¥ui. Sry. 



(109) 




Fig. 36. 



Old rose brocaded satin with Louis XV. biuu-li of flowers 
(love knots and cupid's quiver) in white. Old point lace in 
the front o( waist, white satin slippers. 



(110) 




Fig. 36. 



(Ill) 




Fi(i. 87. 



A pale gniy silk combined with old rose. Passementerie 
trimmin*:;' consists of small roses and leaves, the roses in pink 
shaded to crimson, the leaves in different shades of olive green. 
It can be worn with oi' without i'il)l)()n l)elt. If the ribbon is 
tied in fi'ont it should be a. lar'ge bow without ends made of 
pink, antl if tied at the back, it should be of gray with long 
ends. 

(112) 




Fig. 37. 



(113) 




Fig. as. 



This re])ress'nts the white waist worn with the ordinary 
summer skirt. It is perfectly ])hiin with one seam in the back, 
one under th(; arm and two (hirts in front; it is cut low in the 
neck and h)W under the arms to make it as cool as possible. 
A winter waist, made for the same purpose, would be higher 
in the neck and greater width of shoulder straps to support 
the wei'dit of ln'avier skirts. Flat bone bnttons are used for 
securing the skirts. 

(114) 




Fig. 39. 

A heavy, wash, surah silk, white, edged with Valenciennes 
lace at the sleeves and neck. There are five l)readtlis in the 
skirt, iini>ored, gathered and sewed upon tlie waist. This 
skirt I am wearing- to-day, but have put light liair cloth, about 
six inches in depth in the bottom, for holding out the skirt. 



(115) 




Fig. 40. 



Material, black figured lace made over black surah silk; slip 
finished at the neck and sleeves with broad lace. The lace 
laid in folds at the shoulders, caught in at the waist by palui- 
leaf passementerie of black, edged with yellow. Tiie back of 
the waist is fitted at shoulders, left full at the bottom, carried 
in at the micklle of the waist, and fastened with a ])assemen- 
terie tiie same as in the front of the waist. The skii-t hangs 
full in the center and back, is fj:ored under the arms and han^:- 
ing almost plain at the sides. 

(116) 




Fig. 41. 



A rough goods, dai-k red, covered with raised knots of 
brown; waist and skirt made separately. The waist band ig 
covered with a narrow fokl of the goods and fastened to the 
waist by large hooks. The front is of velvet-shaded satin, 
green, brown, red and cream. Bands of velvet covered with 
white appliquet run from shoulder to belt. The velvet col- 
larette comes over the tops of the sleeves. Collar of velvet 

(117) 




Fig. 41. 



trimmed with white apphquet, same width as that on collar- 
ette. A band of velvet and qnillino's of the fancy sillc liiiisli 
the sleeves: velvet l)ow at tlie l)ack of neck and at the Ix'lt. 



(118) 




Fig. 42. 



White silk o-own finislied with cord at neck. 



(119) 




Fig. 43. 



Black moiro antique trimmed with jet passementerie which 
serves as a belt. The waist is made of black plaited chiflfon 
lined in the back with black surah, in the front with li<j;-h.t blue. 
This dress has a collai" covered with light blue sui'ah over 
which is the black chilfon; over that, jiassementerie, such as 
forms the belt. For a more dressy occasion, a collar made of 
black lace on which are white lace a})pliquet figures, is worn. 

(120) 




P^Ki. 4;}. 



This lace is bought by the yard, pointed and edged with a 
])laiting of light blue chiffon. The same light blue plaited 
chitfon finishes the sleeve and is around the edge of the collar. 



(131) 




Fig. 44. 



Evening D)'e.'<s. — Sleeves and skirt of ap])le green satin. 
"Waist of tignr(Ml silk in which there are deep crimson flowers, 
green leaves, a stri])e of light bine and a stri])e of deep crimson. 
The collar is of (h'cj) crimson satin, over which is an eml)i'oid- 
ered Madras, alt(;rnating wheels of pale bine and cream. There 
are panels the same as the collar on either side of the front 
breadth. The sleeves are finished by a band, the same as col- 

(123) 




r 



Fig. 44. 



lar; dee]i lace at the sleev^es, and a iiarrower lace of the saine 
kind finishes the neck. The belt is a twisted piece of silk the 
same as l)0(lv of the dress. 



(123) 



DRESSMAKERS. 

[ am ropoatoilly asked for a. (liv'ssiiKiLci-, who cnii suit tlie 
individual, who has an eye for eoh)i', who will linish a dress 
well; one who can make a dress that is eoinl'oi'tahle and at the 
same time will not depart so far from the conventional that 
the wearer will he the "olisei-ved of all oljservers,'" if not the 
derided of all observers. 

Miss Anxik M. (tiusox, ;;1 E. AVashin«j,-ton St., Tioom T;12, 
Chicao'o. III.. h;is di'si^'iied some of the most desiral)le dresses 
that I have had. 

INIks. Iior,F,RT DiRFKxnoRF, 4710 Calumet Ave., Chieao'o. is a 
lady of excellent taste in (h^sii^ii and linish and will make 
dresses eithei' at home oi' upon order. 

I can umpialiliedly recommend both la<lies. 



(124) 




M WILL furnish a pattern of 
^ girl's divided skirt for 20cents, 
sent by mail. TJic skirt ready- 
made for a girl from 8 to 12 
years of age, in domestic ging- 
ham or blue drilh'ng, price ^^i.oo; 
made in flannel, price $2.00. 

When ordering, give age and 
waist measure. 

MRS. C. D. NEWELL, 
223 Dickey Avenue, 
- CHICAGO. 



TALLADEGA, ALA., | 
Sept. I, 1896. ) 

DEAR MRS. NEWELL: 

Your kind letter, also the child's play 
dress and pnttern were duly received. I 
am convinced that this is ^//e dress for little 
girls to wear at home. 1 believe it is only 
a question of time when all thoughtful and 
intelligent parents will adopt this style of 
dress for their little girls under twelve 
years of aije. 

With many thanks for your kindness, I 
remain, yours truly, 

Mrs. Laura F. Kiukpatkick, 

Presiding teacher at the 

"Orphans Home." 



7y\ RS. C. D. NEWELL'S DIVIDED 
* * Skirt on a Yoke requires five 
yards of Jennetta Silk. 

Upon receipt of $4 and your waist 
measure, we will send, express paid, a 
tissue paper pattern and five yards of 
Jennetta Silk ; or 

Upon receipt of 35 and your waist 
and hip measures, and length desired 
from waist to the bottom of the skirt, 
we will send the finished garment ready 
to wear. 

1221 MADISON AVE., BALTIMORE, Md.,-» 

June 4, '96. / 
DEAR MRS. NEWELL: — I have received the divided skirt, and have worn 
it since. I find it perfectly satisfactory in every respect. Please send nie another 
skirt made exactly the same, with the pattern. This skirt is all that a skirt should 
be. Yours, truly, M. R. Mackenzie, M. D. 

(125) 





over 38 inches, $1.25; over 45 inclies, 5r. 

Sizes from .10 to .iS » . . . 

" 40 to 45 .... 

" over 45 .... 

Fast Black, 30 to 40 .... 

" 42 to 45 .... 

Silk, White or Black, 30 to AO, with Ba. = 
Silk, White or Blsck, 42 to 45, with Ba. 



yUHP: Low Form 
^ is best suited to 
ladies having a full 
developed breast. 

When ordering 
please give me 
some idea of your 
form and what kind 
is wanted, high or 
low form. Take 
the measure over 
the largest part of 
the breast, from 
under arm to under 
arm. 

No. 40 and up- 
ward in size, ! make 
a cloth back of wh i te 
silesia; for the ad- 
ditional sum of 
twenty - five cents, 
45 and over 50. 
All bust measures 



$1.00 

1.25 
1.50 
1.50 
2.00 
3.00 
3.50 



" liiwgf itiiil liMvy breasts ;in' satisfactorily supported. Several of the meiubers of our society, 
who have as nun li dittirulty as any one can have, found them good. I consider it the best thing I 
have found in a seareli of forty years." 

MltS. l'i;.VN('ls M. STEELK. 

iMKS C. 1). NIOWKIif,. 17 Ai'K., '.M. 

In the enclosed reprint of in\ paper, read belore tlie American (;> necobmieal 
Society, yon will find a releiince to \onr iireasi Suppoitei'. In repnblishniLC the artii le in fuUer 
form, I desire to put in a picture of tin' Supi>orter. l\indl.\ send nii' an idectrotype ot the cut. 

l)i{.. 1U)15T. L. UK KINSON. 

14:> L'linton Street. ISrooklvn. N. Y. 



P.\TTHRX OF ANY DkESS SHOWN IN BoOK, PrICE 50 CeNTS. 

For Measure Bl.'Xnks, ADiiREss 

MRS. C. D. NEWELL, 

223 Dickey Avenue, 

CHICAGO, ILL. 

(120) 



Perfection Breast Support Form. 



T 



MANUFACTURED BY MRS. C D. NEWELL. 

HE Perfection 




I^reast Support 
Form meets a long- 
felt want by every 
woman and girl, 
from the age of i6, 
for house wear, 
whether she be 
wedded to the stiff- 
ness of a corset, the 
latest Paris fashion, 
or a convert to the 
improved dress. 
The Breast Support 
Form will supply 
deficiency of de- 
velopment, or sup- 
port the larger 
breast of the stately, 
fleshy lady, or that 
ofthe dainty, plump 
woman. 

The high form 
is best for those who need deficiency supplied, as a lady may 
have a breast to support, yet not large enough to give her a 
good foim in proportion to the size of her waist. After wearing 
the Support for a time, and keeping the breasts in their proper 
piace, the breasts will become firm and plump. 

The support is made of a strong, light material (called Tamfico 
F'ibkk), and is delightfully cool in warm weather. The cut shows 
the mode of wearing and adjusting them with non-elastic straps 
and buckles. 

The low form is best suited to ladies with fully developed 
breasts. 

After wearing the supporter a {cw days, and getting it properly 
fitted to the form, if the buckles become objectionable, cut them 
off and sew the straps to the forms. 

Bust measure from 30 to 38. Price, 31.00 by mail. 



'ifg I 



Dress Reform Rooms 



ESTABLISHED 1875 



SEND YOUR 

ORDERS FOR 
HEALTH GAR- 
MENTS SUCH 
AS 



Equipoise Waists 

Jenness Miller Bodices 

Empire Waists 

Greek Girdles 

Newell Bust Supporters 

Elastic Abdominal Supporters 

Ypsilanti Union Suits 

Wool Tights and 

Hose Supporters, to-- ^ 



. 5. W. Pike, 



Central flusic Hall 



Cor. State and Randolph Streets 



Chicago 



Illustrated 
Catalogue Free 



OVER 
20 YEARS 

practical 
experience: 



One of many 
Testimonials 



9;i()0 rjdXcwdOD .\\i:NrK. 

STA. p. ( 'UlCACO. 
As ;i iMt'iiiltcr ol' tlic ( 'lii(a.L;<i '■ Society tor tlii' I'roiiio- 
tioii of I'liysiciil ( 'ultiirc and ( 'oncct Ihcss." 1 lake 
]>U'asur(' ii! rccomim'iidiii.L; to stiulciits of llic aliovc siili- 
jc(-t, Mrs. 8. W. Pike's (Central Musie 1 lall. ('lnCa,i;o) as a relial>le and 
accominodating place to tind a tuli line of liealtli .u,aniients ; and as a corset 
substitute, she carries a good variety of tlie Knipire Waist. ('leo[i;itra (Jirdle 
and Grecian Cross Girdle. Sincerely, 



March ?., 1S96. 



Ella A, AV, Hoswell, 



(1^8) 



miss £♦ D). HWKh 



Dressmaker and purcbasins jisent 

pnrcliasps everything 
pcrtaininu' to dress or lioiiie, 
at the lowest retail ])i-ife 



WITHOUT ANY CMARGE TO YOU 



Wedding Trousseaux 



bought and made 

in the latest and 

most fashionalile styles 



Reform 6ou)ns a SPigaltp 



Select any of the gowns illustrated in this hook and write 
us and we will send you measurin.L;- l)lanks witli lull 
directions. We also furnish 



Reform anaerwear 



of the most reliable manufacture. Each order is oiven 
our particular study, and satisfactory work is ouaraiiteed. 
Choice samples for vour selection will be sent l)y mail on 
application. We also keei* ourselves posted on the latest 
and newest kinds of trimmings. 

milHrKrsjnOre^ma^ 

will find it profitable to employ our service to match trim- 
mings, and SMALL DEALERS to secure goods not gen- 
erally kept in stock bv them, which ix'rtain to women s 
and 'children's wear. ^ WE (^IVE MORE ATTENTION 
than can generally be given by any mail order department 
of any dry goods house to any orders entrusted to our care, 
and our experience enables us to exeTcise the utmost taste 
and economy in selecting durable and well made goods. 

Acme Dress Protector, patented aphi 19th, 1887. 




is one of the best, most serviceable and economical articles ever invented 
§r^ c^ be worn with all your dre^es. Cashable and m^-yo-o 1-- 
Every one who has them recommends them to t'^^n ti em s c^ e a In to 
wash dresses, shirt waists, etc. Prices, ordiujiry size. M)c , ai ^< ^ J ; 
^100- exira larn'e, $1.25, Acme Dress Shields separate ; oi.lma.> s./-. . 
:',.-)(•. per pair ; large, 40c.; extra large, 50c. 

MISS L. n. ALDRICH, 

Room 22, 34 East Monroe St., 

CHICAGO, ILL. 



15 Years Experience 
as a Purchasing Agent. 



(12!)) 



National Dress 
ImprovEmEnt 
Association. 

5174. 518 VENETIAN BLDG. 

Chicago, III. 



To Mothers : 

We desire to call 
your atteiuion to the im- 
proved method of dress- 
ing the babv. Just one 
Pin, the Diaper Pin. 
No tii^ht bands; absolute 
freedom and comfort. 

The celebrated " Ger- 
trude" infant's outfitcon- 
sists of three garments: 
The knit underskirt, tak- 
ing the place of the shirt 
and pinning-blanket, the 
flannel skirt and the dress 
or slip. 

The nightgown is made 
of the same knit fabric as 
the first garment, but 
double fold; the bands 
of a soft, pliable material 
in fine cashmere or me- 
rino. 

The accompanying cut 
shows the three garments 
as worn together in the 
"Genrude" outfit. The 
garments are nicely fin- 
ished and inexpensive. 

Cut showing the form-fitting 
Diaper. 





TTThIS GARMENT IS SHAPED SO AS TO FIT 
-i- the body like a suit of underwear. 
Heretofore, without any form or shape beyond the 
" square," the diaper was of equal size throughout ; 
large at the waist and pressing tightly upon the body, 
where it should be by all means loose. In this the 
reverse is brought about, and the diaper folds as any 
other (only cross-wise of the gore or seam), fits snugiy 
at the waist, and large, roomy and baggy at the seat, 
hardly allowing the garment to touch the body where 
the irritation, eruptions and inflammation generally 
exist. 

All mothers having the comfort of baby at heart, and 
we know all have, will receive a catalogue showing 
cuts of each garment and quoting prices, by applying to 
the address given above. 

MISS MARl^VRET ()'(()>M:U, 

Maiiaiter. 

(130; 



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